EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts

The Fine Things are Always Hand Made

 I just got into this fascinating hobby.  Just redid a couple of radios I grew up with - a Majestic 1941, and Philco Model14 - 1933, chassis only. Now working on a Philco 96, 1930.  I decided I needed a real radio and found a Scott 16 in an Acousticraft cabinet.  It's not in the greatest shape as there is a fair amount of chrome damage and it is missing a few parts.  The receiver, power supply and speaker are intact and fairly unmolested, but I need knobs, the large dial pointer and a replacement plastic dial cover.  Are there reproductions of these parts?  Or, in particular, does anyone have a pointer they might want to sell?  I guess I can live with non original knobs and I think I could vacuum form a new dial cover.  I couldn't find anything at Radio Daze.

This project will be on the back burner for awhile, especially as I research dealing with the rust areas in the chrome.  Not sure I want to completely strip the chassis and have it re-plated.  I guess it depends on what it's value might be completely restored.

I've done a little research on the 16 in the forum's archives.  I'm not really sure of what I've got. I don't know how popular the 16 was or how it performed compared to the other Scott models.  Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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My references for knob placement are Scott marketing material - price lists, Scott News issues and owners manuals  all with with photos.

Can't argue with the factory!

I have the John F Rider schematic for the 16/18 given in the Archives section of this forum, but I find that the resolution is rather low and I cannot read many of the values for components.  Does a high resolution schematic exist?  If so, How can I obtain a copy?

I have originals of everything in the archive, I'll try a higher resolution scan to see if I can clean it up a bit. Maybe in retirement I can go through and really clean these up (who am I kidding!)...

Kent

Thanks Kent.  That would be awesome.  If there is any way I can re-pay you, let me know.

Apparently some models of Emerson also used the same dial pointer. I found one in my junk bin, and it is an identical style, and fits the shaft perfectly. But the length is shorter than the one Scott used on the 16. I would imagine some of the larger dial Emersons that used this style might have had longer pointers.

I have been looking for an Emerson with that kind of dial!  Someone else had said the same thing on another forum.  Thanks for the input!

Brad Winder said:

Apparently some models of Emerson also used the same dial pointer. I found one in my junk bin, and it is an identical style, and fits the shaft perfectly. But the length is shorter than the one Scott used on the 16. I would imagine some of the larger dial Emersons that used this style might have had longer pointers.

Need a quick answer!  I'm re-stuffing the 3 electrolytics on my Scott 16 this evening (I hope).  I can see on the schematics that 2 of them are 30 mfd but can't read the third.  It's either 30 or 50.  Other models, where I can read the schematics, have all 30 mfd caps.  Is it reasonable to use all 30 mfd?

Is also 30 MFD at 450 volts like the other two. Note that two are insulated from the chassis.

There is also the 50 MFD at 50 volts between the ground and the two insulated from the chassis with the positive end to ground.

Thanks David.  i kind of fugured it was 30 mfd.  I looked at the schematics of several other power supplies in riders, and often they were all 30's.  The 50 mfd in my 16 is at 30 volts  I'll stuff it with something a little higher.  I've got some 47mfd at 63 volts.  I also have a couple of 47's at 500 volts but I would assume at very low voltages, the 500 volt cap may actually be a bit less than 47 mfd.  I'll use the 63 volt cap.  The power supply chassis is off for re-chroming.  don't know when I'll get it back.  I just wanted to get something done this evening so I thought I would rebuild the caps.  I appreciate your quick response!

You should have received my paypal payment for a tuning knob.  No hurry as the need will be a long time from now!

David C. Poland said:

Is also 30 MFD at 450 volts like the other two. Note that two are insulated from the chassis.

There is also the 50 MFD at 50 volts between the ground and the two insulated from the chassis with the positive end to ground.

Your repo knob mailed this morning.

Also about what I probably used - 47 MFD at 63 volts. 

I dropped the chrome parts off from the amp/power supply to a local small shop.  Ouch! It is going to cost!  Question though - It appears that the cylindrical cover over the driver transformer (and possibly all of the IF shields) is chromed aluminum since it is non-ferrous.  The re-chrome shop was a bit concerned.  Does anyone know for sure if it is aluminum and if it is, what kind of problems it may cause in the re-chroming process?  They would kind of like to know the alloy if at all possible.

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