800B in a Metropolitan 16A Cabinet? - EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts2024-03-29T15:54:41Zhttps://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/800b-in-a-metropolitan-16a-cabinet?commentId=3925821%3AComment%3A61080&feed=yes&xn_auth=noComing together Joe! Thanks…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-09-09:3925821:Comment:610112017-09-09T11:49:30.290ZJon Ketronhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JonKetron
<p>Coming together Joe! Thanks for sharing an update. Looks great.</p>
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<p>Jon</p>
<p>Coming together Joe! Thanks for sharing an update. Looks great.</p>
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<p>Jon</p> Nice job Joe, looks like it's…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-09-03:3925821:Comment:610802017-09-03T16:08:17.205Zmike hadleyhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/mikehadley
Nice job Joe, looks like it's always been there<br />
Mike
Nice job Joe, looks like it's always been there<br />
Mike Thanks to Mike Hadley, I mana…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-09-03:3925821:Comment:610042017-09-03T15:29:06.646ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
<p>Thanks to Mike Hadley, I managed to make a replacement for the first can electrolytic of the 800B power supply. The original was a 4uF unit. The previous owner had installed a 4uF axial lead unit under the chassis and it has been operating OK from the first day I received the two-chassis 800B unit. Some months ago I discovered that bridging the 4uF with a 16uF non-polarized polypropylene AC motor capacitor eliminated the residual hum that I was hearing from the speaker. Mike sent me some…</p>
<p>Thanks to Mike Hadley, I managed to make a replacement for the first can electrolytic of the 800B power supply. The original was a 4uF unit. The previous owner had installed a 4uF axial lead unit under the chassis and it has been operating OK from the first day I received the two-chassis 800B unit. Some months ago I discovered that bridging the 4uF with a 16uF non-polarized polypropylene AC motor capacitor eliminated the residual hum that I was hearing from the speaker. Mike sent me some electrolytic empty cans that are just a little shorter than the original can electrolytic. I used one of them to make a container for the 16uF capacitor that I had to add in parallel with the existing 4uF axial lead capacitor under the chassis. The result is a 20uF first capacitor section after the rectifier tubes. The rectifier tubes are capable of this much capacitance and more, but 20uF does deliver essentially hum free audio from this unit. Here are a couple of pictures with the new capacitor installed.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771126165?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771126165?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="721"/></a></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771126604?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771126604?profile=original" class="align-full" width="601"/></a></p>
<p>Joe</p> David;
Thanks indeed! I am ve…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-08-22:3925821:Comment:604492017-08-22T19:45:16.254ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
<p>David;</p>
<p>Thanks indeed! I am very fortunate to have dodged the cancer bullet for a third time in my life.</p>
<p>I still have to put the triangular corner braces back in position behind the tuner chassis and do some other minor things. I may trim the excess felt off of the angle metal rails and make that neater. After I get the cover on the back of the speaker cabinet stained and then put the original thin cover over that it will look pretty original except for the bass reflex port…</p>
<p>David;</p>
<p>Thanks indeed! I am very fortunate to have dodged the cancer bullet for a third time in my life.</p>
<p>I still have to put the triangular corner braces back in position behind the tuner chassis and do some other minor things. I may trim the excess felt off of the angle metal rails and make that neater. After I get the cover on the back of the speaker cabinet stained and then put the original thin cover over that it will look pretty original except for the bass reflex port opening to the rear. There remains also the trim veneer on either side of the tuner front panel and a trim piece above that to prevent the door from pushing back too far when the door is closed over the tuner - details, details.</p>
<p>I had delays in getting some things that I needed to bring the 800B together, so in the meantime I had restored a Fisher 202-R AM-FM tuner from their 1962 product line. It had a broken AM ferrite rod antenna when I received it and the FM reception was very poor. I replaced two capacitors in the FM IF and did an alignment plus new tubes , power supply rebuild, replacement of off value resistors and capacitor and now it works as good as new. That kept me in better spirits as I dealt with the cancer issue.</p>
<p>Joe</p> Quite a project. Looks nice. …tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-08-22:3925821:Comment:605512017-08-22T19:35:02.079ZDavid C. Polandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/DavidCPoland
<p>Quite a project. Looks nice. </p>
<p>Glad you are back to good health again.</p>
<p>Quite a project. Looks nice. </p>
<p>Glad you are back to good health again.</p> After long delays due to havi…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-08-22:3925821:Comment:603462017-08-22T19:00:18.411ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
<p>After long delays due to having surgery for cancer, I am finally back to my hobby restoring vintage radios! I was fortunate to discover the cancer early enough to have surgery and get rid of it. The pathology report and subsequent PET and CT scans show no evidence of it having spread.</p>
<p>I did manage to get the 800B tuner chassis to fit into the cabinet after I added 1/2 inch thick shims underneath the cabinet top which came off with the removal of some screws holding wooden cleats to…</p>
<p>After long delays due to having surgery for cancer, I am finally back to my hobby restoring vintage radios! I was fortunate to discover the cancer early enough to have surgery and get rid of it. The pathology report and subsequent PET and CT scans show no evidence of it having spread.</p>
<p>I did manage to get the 800B tuner chassis to fit into the cabinet after I added 1/2 inch thick shims underneath the cabinet top which came off with the removal of some screws holding wooden cleats to the underside of the top. Some red mahogany stain on the mahogany shims and then some clear lacquer over the outside finish sides of the shims worked very well and look like they are part of the original construction of the cabinet.</p>
<p>Mike Hadley had sent me some electrolytic empty cans to use in the 800B power supply to replace the bad first electrolytic (a 4uF right after the rectifier tubes). The old one had started leaking material on the chassis bottom cover and corroded the steel plate. Fortunately I was able to remove most of the corrosion. Removing the old electrolytic was quite a task. It began to slip on the top side of the chassis and the retaining nut and starwasher underneath would not loosen. I finally had to destroy the old capacitor and as a result needed a replacement can to stuff and make a new one. Mike came to my rescue and sent me a couple of empty cans and adapter aluminum discs for the bottom to permit remounting on the chassis. I just today found the needed size of hardware for mounting the assembly to the chassis again and bought the needed pieces. I plan to increase the 1st electrolytic value to 20uF which is well within the capability of the rectifier tubes to handle. This will bump up the B+ some and then I plan to try a 100 ohm 10W resistor in series with the B+ to the next electrolytic in the B+ string. I can measure the voltage drop and calculate the current through it, then find the nearest standard value resistor which will handle the current and drop the B+ back down to the original values shown in the E H Scott schematics.</p>
<p>I did manage to find some decent speaker grill cloth and got the speaker mounted in the cabinet. Hope to get the unit finished next month so I can work on other items.</p>
<p>Joe</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771123967?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771123967?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="721"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771124065?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771124065?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="721"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771124263?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771124263?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="721"/></a>Here you can see some felt I added under the angle metal rails that support the radio tuner chassis. The felt helps avoid scratching the back side of the front door as it slides under the tuner chassis. It took considerable work trimming, using thin shims etc. to get the rails spaced just high enough to clear the door as it slides in and out. The top of the preset tuning assembly just clears under the top of the cabinet by about 3/16". I still have to stain the back cover over the speaker area and add some internal padding.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771124232?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771124232?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="721"/></a>Here you can see the crossover network. and the wires to/from the speaker.</p> As it turned out, using a ste…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-04-28:3925821:Comment:579852017-04-28T21:45:46.442ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
<p>As it turned out, using a steel plate to support the 800B tuner in a Metropolitan cabinet of this type does not work. The 800B tuner chassis turns out to be significantly taller than that of the Metropolitan tuner. I thought I had it covered until I pushed the tuner forward and then the chrome plated piece that supports the commutator disc and moveable preset tabs bumped against the top of the cabinet. It lacked about 1/2 inch all together.</p>
<p>I had some angle metal that was 1.25" X…</p>
<p>As it turned out, using a steel plate to support the 800B tuner in a Metropolitan cabinet of this type does not work. The 800B tuner chassis turns out to be significantly taller than that of the Metropolitan tuner. I thought I had it covered until I pushed the tuner forward and then the chrome plated piece that supports the commutator disc and moveable preset tabs bumped against the top of the cabinet. It lacked about 1/2 inch all together.</p>
<p>I had some angle metal that was 1.25" X 1.25" by 4ft. I cut pieces of it with a diamond cutting disc on my miter saw. I made sure to use safety goggles because sparks fly all over even with the normal miter saw shields in place. I had to completely remove the wooden rails in the cabinet that originally supported a Metropolitan chassis. This would allow the steel angle rails to be at least a full 1/2" lower in the cabinet. I used the wooden rails to determine drill hole points in the steel brackets I had made. I did a trial mounting and found that there was still about 3/16" of the commutator bracket that was bumping against the top of the cabinet. So - I had to remove the sliding door pieces, used my stationary belt sander to gradually remove enough material from the wooden slide guides on the portion of the sliding door assembly that always remains inside the cabinet. I had to make its vertical height less by the needed 3/16" or so.</p>
<p>I also found it necessary to re-install the door after the internal part had been shaved down, use some poster board strips as spacers and mount the angle brackets. That way after the brackets had been fastened down to the cabinet walls, I could slide the strips out and there was enough play for the parts to move relatively freely. I still need to do some sanding inside the cabinet to eliminate some final binding in a few spots.</p>
<p>I was able to determine the final position of the front wooden trim panel after the tuner chassis was slid into place as forward as it could go without having the front door bump against the knobs of the tuner.</p>
<p>The final result will work and the cabinet will look as it did originally except for the wood trim panel of the 800B tuner. A lot of modifying of the cabinet became necessary in order to get the tuner chassis to fit in this cabinet. The rear top corner braces have to be unscrewed and removed in order to get the tuner chassis to slide in. These will go back in the cabinet after the tuner chassis is in its final position, but will be left without glue on them so that they can be removed again if service requires the tuner to be pulled out. This is definitely not a project for the faint of heart! However, I was able to obtain and save a beautiful cabinet. Cabinets for 800B sets are not readily available minus their electronic chassis. Many of them do have significant damage after so many years. It takes a really dedicated, experienced and determined person to properly restore a cabinet with veneer that is peeling or warped etc. I have been following some restorations of cabinets on-line and I don't feel quite that brave yet.</p>
<p>I will try to get some pictures after I manage to get the final fit of all the parts worked out and in place.</p>
<p>Joe</p> Today I identified a stainles…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-04-17:3925821:Comment:574492017-04-17T20:13:05.673ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
<p>Today I identified a stainless steel plate in McMaster-Carr's website that I can use to make a support for the radio tuner chassis in the Metropolitan cabinet. This is their <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8983K196" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1492459196758_3063" name="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1492459196758_3063" rel="nofollow" style="color: #004298; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank" title="Add item to current order">8983K196</a> 304 Stainless Steel Sheet 18" x 18", 0.075"…</p>
<p>Today I identified a stainless steel plate in McMaster-Carr's website that I can use to make a support for the radio tuner chassis in the Metropolitan cabinet. This is their <a rel="nofollow" style="color: #004298; text-decoration: none;" title="Add item to current order" target="_blank" href="http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8983K196" id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1492459196758_3063" name="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1492459196758_3063">8983K196</a> 304 Stainless Steel Sheet 18" x 18", 0.075" thick which is the same thickness as the 800B chassis metal. It could be polished to come close to the chrome plating of the chassis. I will make or find some small right angle brackets to fasten the tuner chassis to the plate to secure them together. Locations of holes on the bottom plate to be determined based on best fit.</p>
<p>The Garrard RC-88/4 changer I am installing in the changer compartment came with a mounting board from a prior installation. I trimmed it to size and it fits into the changer box in the cabinet very well. There was a 3 1/2 inch gap at the back. I bought a 24" X 3.5" X 3/4" piece of furniture grade Poplar at Lowe's to make a piece to fill the gap at the back of the mounting board. I am going to look for some Luan Mahogany veneer to cover both after I join the Poplar piece to the mounting board and then stain it to match the color of the cabinet, followed by application of some lacquer.</p>
<p>I am trying to decide on a preamp to use with it. I am leaning toward using a Fisher PR-6 preamp, but am undecided at this point.</p>
<p>Joe</p> Can anyone verify this lower…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-04-12:3925821:Comment:576202017-04-12T00:56:16.416ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
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<blockquote cite="http://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/800b-in-a-metropolitan-16a-cabinet?xg_source=activity&id=3925821%3ATopic%3A56654&page=3#3925821Comment57615"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771120561?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771120561?profile=original" width="600"></img></a> Can anyone verify this lower cover is not original?</p>
<p><strong><em>As it turns out, the Installation Manual does say that there is a cover over the speaker…</em></strong></p>
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<blockquote cite="http://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/800b-in-a-metropolitan-16a-cabinet?xg_source=activity&id=3925821%3ATopic%3A56654&page=3#3925821Comment57615"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771120561?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771120561?profile=original" class="align-full" width="600"/></a>Can anyone verify this lower cover is not original?</p>
<p><strong><em>As it turns out, the Installation Manual does say that there is a cover over the speaker compartment, so I will assume that it is an original cover, but there need to be a wood cleat added along the top to secure that part of the cover where screw holes exist with not wood to receive screws.</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>Joe</em></strong></p>
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</blockquote> April 10th was spent removing…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2017-04-11:3925821:Comment:574352017-04-11T20:21:05.997ZJoseph W Stricklandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JosephWStrickland
<p>April 10th was spent removing the 16A trim panel from the cabinet. I had to use a hacksaw blade to saw through some finishing nails that secured it to the side of the cabinet and to the center partition board. In order to do so I had to drive some small screw drivers between the side of the trim panel and the side or partition to force enough space to use the hacksaw blade. There were three finishing nails on each side. Once that was done I was able to remove the trim panel. I held it up;…</p>
<p>April 10th was spent removing the 16A trim panel from the cabinet. I had to use a hacksaw blade to saw through some finishing nails that secured it to the side of the cabinet and to the center partition board. In order to do so I had to drive some small screw drivers between the side of the trim panel and the side or partition to force enough space to use the hacksaw blade. There were three finishing nails on each side. Once that was done I was able to remove the trim panel. I held it up; against the 800B OEM trim panel and was able to see how much material needed to be removed from each side of the 800B trim panel. I used a 4 inch wide stationary belt sander to sand down each side a small amount at a time until I managed to get it the same width as the 16A trim panel.</p>
<p>Today I tried the fit of the 800B trim panel in the cabinet and learned that it needed to be reduced in size from front to back so that it would fit just behind the closed door. I used the original trim panel and marked off the depth of it against the sides of the trim panel from the 800B. Then judicious use of my saber saw just short of the actual dimension was trimmed from the back edge of the trim panel toward the front. I finished the trimming with the belt sander again. I checked the fit again this afternoon and am confident now that the tuner chassis will fit in without additional problems.</p>
<p>I may need to strip the existing finish and change the color a bit to match the front of this cabinet. I also need to sand the inside of the right side wall of the cabinet and the left side of the center partition because the tilt of the 800B trim panel exposed some wood that has not been stained or finished before. I don't think this will be too difficult to do. I placed the revised trim panel in position and took this picture. I will need to add some small horizontal trim along the top edge of the 800B trim panel to cover about a 3/8 inch gap at the top. I can use some of the wood that came off of the top of the 800B trim panel for that.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771121039?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2771121039?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="721"/></a>The 800B trim panel is just a little darker than the 16A cabinet finish. By the time I strip its finish and use a tinted lacquer over it I think I can come pretty close to the 16A finish.</p>
<p>Joe</p>