EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts

The Fine Things are Always Hand Made

Hello,

Thanks to the great advice from fellow collector Mike Hadley I have completed the cord replacement on my remote control Philharmonic.

I used cotton sleeve in 6mm and 8mm sizes that I purchased from the UK. 6mm for the remote cable and 8mm for the power/amp cable.

For dying I used a box of Rit tan colored dye using the stove top method. Might be a tad too dark, but I am happy with the results. Hopefully it will last another 70 years.

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I can't help but notice that the filaments of tubes in the power amplifier are on but the four pin plug for the power switch and control supply voltage from the tuner chassis is not plugged in!  Are you operating the set using a power amplifier designed for the standard chassis rather than the remote control chassis?

Norman

Norman,

I received the radio with a power amplifier designed for the standard chassis. I was planning to update my PS with the 24vac transformer and 4 pin socket or make an adaptor with these components to enable remote control functionality. 

OK, it sounds like you have the knowledge to make the conversion.

Norman 

You should find on the amp side apron (opposite side of the set and speaker socket) a set of 4 holes mid way. 

Those 4 holes fit the mount points for the 24 volt step down transformer Scott used. I also had to seek a 24 volt transformer and came petty closet finding on on eBay that fit.

David,

Do you happen to have a photo or two of the transformer set-up?

David C. Poland said:

You should find on the amp side apron (opposite side of the set and speaker socket) a set of 4 holes mid way. 

Those 4 holes fit the mount points for the 24 volt step down transformer Scott used. I also had to seek a 24 volt transformer and came petty closet finding on on eBay that fit.

Recommend you keep the cables away from the hot amp tubes. Find a way to reroute them.

Some cables seem to have a mind of their own, for which I use a couple of large cup hooks as stays.

Hope the photos I sent you helpful. But once you find a suitable 24 volt transformer, you can drill holes to mount it below the mid amp choke. 

I find my early 1938 pointer dial Philly amp also lacks the 4 holes. Kent has a remote control pointer Philly and could verify the mounting of the 24 volt step-down xfmr.

Refer to LATER Philly diagram for the wire arrangement for the 4 pin socket small and fat pins, to protect some future amp owner expecting standard wiring. Later Philharmonics had the power switch on the volume control via the 4 pin socket you contemplate installing. But your pointer dial model has the power switch mounted on the side of the cabinet.

David,

Yes, the photos were great. I think given my serial number is indeed an early pointer set. 

Do you know the specification on the 24vac transformer current that should be adequate to run the motors?

From the schematic looks like the 24v transformer is always on when the set is plugged in.

David C. Poland said:

Hope the photos I sent you helpful. But once you find a suitable 24 volt transformer, you can drill holes to mount it below the mid amp choke. 

I find my early 1938 pointer dial Philly amp also lacks the 4 holes. Kent has a remote control pointer Philly and could verify the mounting of the 24 volt step-down xfmr.

Refer to LATER Philly diagram for the wire arrangement for the 4 pin socket small and fat pins, to protect some future amp owner expecting standard wiring. Later Philharmonics had the power switch on the volume control via the 4 pin socket you contemplate installing. But your pointer dial model has the power switch mounted on the side of the cabinet.

Not sure about  24 volt wiring on a pointer dial Philharmonic,  or model Sixteen. Power switches mounted on the side of the cabinet for these models.

Later models commencing about 1939, the power switch relocated to the volume control. The remote control version have the 24 volt step-down transformer is always active whenever the the radio is plugged in. But only limited to the keyboard volume button to drive the volume control motor for the purpose of powering on the radio. I have two remote control Scotts:  Philly BOL 8 shaft AM/SW Philharmonic and 20 tube AM/SW Phantom Deluxe - both have a tapped volume control with  two switches on the back of the control to 1) power on the radio and 2) the 2nd switch to complete the 24 volt circuit to the tuning drive motor.

Someone with a working remote control pointer dial Philharmonic or model Sixteen can chime in. 

Correct, the 24V transformer is always on, so when you want to turn on the set remotely, you can activate the volume control "up" to flip the switch.

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