Just acquired first EH Scott radio, an Allwave 12, and have some questions. - EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts2024-03-29T14:16:45Zhttps://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/just-acquired-first-eh-scott-radio-an-allwave-12-and-have-some?commentId=3925821%3AComment%3A93741&xg_source=activity&feed=yes&xn_auth=noHello- It took longer than e…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2021-01-21:3925821:Comment:937412021-01-21T00:54:09.902ZTroy Taylorhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/TroyTaylor
<p>Hello- It took longer than expected, but last evening I finally got a chance to investigate the power supply. I could not find anything amiss with the filter caps or any other components. So I replaced the faulty 80 with a known good one and powered up again. Everything works again! No blown fuses, no surprises. I played it all evening last night and it is playing now as I type. Just about to listen to "FIFTIES AT FIVE" on my favorite local station.</p>
<p>I guess the filament in the…</p>
<p>Hello- It took longer than expected, but last evening I finally got a chance to investigate the power supply. I could not find anything amiss with the filter caps or any other components. So I replaced the faulty 80 with a known good one and powered up again. Everything works again! No blown fuses, no surprises. I played it all evening last night and it is playing now as I type. Just about to listen to "FIFTIES AT FIVE" on my favorite local station.</p>
<p>I guess the filament in the 80 went open without something else in the radio failing and taking out the tube. Glad there were no serious problems to sort out.</p>
<p>Thank you all for the advice and suggestions! Hoping to resume muddling through the Philharmonic this weekend.</p>
<p>Best regards-<br/>Troy</p>
<p>Edmonds, WA</p> Do you have a variac? I'd bri…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2021-01-03:3925821:Comment:934622021-01-03T15:38:05.551ZKent Kinghttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/KentKing
<p>Do you have a variac? I'd bring it up slowly, monitoring voltage. Don't underestimate how quickly an 80 will start delivering B+, since the filament is the cathode, the voltage comes up very quickly. I'd be very suspicious of a shorted filter cap.</p>
<p>Kent</p>
<p>Do you have a variac? I'd bring it up slowly, monitoring voltage. Don't underestimate how quickly an 80 will start delivering B+, since the filament is the cathode, the voltage comes up very quickly. I'd be very suspicious of a shorted filter cap.</p>
<p>Kent</p> Suggest you replace the fuse…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2021-01-02:3925821:Comment:932542021-01-02T20:12:13.648ZDavid C. Polandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/DavidCPoland
<p>Suggest you replace the fuse and install another tested good 80. Power up with a Variac and see what happens.</p>
<p>Rectifier would usually either wear out (lose emission) or burn out.</p>
<p>If the filament failed with a broken filament, a loose end may have touched the plate, in which case the fuse did its job.</p>
<p>Initial power up surge is when a tube (or a light bulb) seems most apt to burn out.</p>
<p>Suggest you replace the fuse and install another tested good 80. Power up with a Variac and see what happens.</p>
<p>Rectifier would usually either wear out (lose emission) or burn out.</p>
<p>If the filament failed with a broken filament, a loose end may have touched the plate, in which case the fuse did its job.</p>
<p>Initial power up surge is when a tube (or a light bulb) seems most apt to burn out.</p> Hello and Happy New Year-
I h…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2021-01-02:3925821:Comment:933662021-01-02T15:51:35.596ZTroy Taylorhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/TroyTaylor
<p>Hello and Happy New Year-</p>
<p>I have been using this AW12 regularly for the last couple of years, using an _excellent_ quality bucking transformer I bought from another forum member. The radio has been working great, until a short while ago. Now it has blown a couple of fuses in the bucking transformer (not any fuses in the radio itself). It blew a 3A fuse in the smaller transformer I use, and also a 5A fuse in the larger transformer I typically use to operate the AW23.</p>
<p>The…</p>
<p>Hello and Happy New Year-</p>
<p>I have been using this AW12 regularly for the last couple of years, using an _excellent_ quality bucking transformer I bought from another forum member. The radio has been working great, until a short while ago. Now it has blown a couple of fuses in the bucking transformer (not any fuses in the radio itself). It blew a 3A fuse in the smaller transformer I use, and also a 5A fuse in the larger transformer I typically use to operate the AW23.</p>
<p>The fuses blew at power up, but not immediately. First the dial lights came on fine, then a sort-of a slight hum, then POOF went the fuse. This happened before the 80 would have warmed up enough to be supplying DC to the set.</p>
<p>I checked the 80 and discovered it has an open filament. Since I've been using this set for a couple of years with this same tube, obviously the tube recently failed. But I am now wondering: would a dead rectifier tube cause an increase in current draw when powering up, such that the rectifier failure is the cause of the fuses blowing?</p>
<p>Or- might some other reason for an increase in current draw also be the cause of failure for the 80? </p>
<p>I'm trying to figure out if the failed rectifier tube is the cause of my fuse-blowing problem, or a symptom of something else going on, before I potentially blow any more fuses or 80s. </p>
<p>Thank you and best regards-</p>
<p>Troy</p>
<p>Edmonds, WA</p> Hello-
As I continue to use a…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2018-11-04:3925821:Comment:684442018-11-04T02:03:19.295ZTroy Taylorhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/TroyTaylor
<p>Hello-</p>
<p>As I continue to use and learn more about this radio now that it is functional, I keep finding new questions. I have a low-resolution/quality Xerox copy of the original owners instruction manual. In the section labeled "TUBES", it says to interchange the type 27 tubes around until you get the loudest signal from whichever tube is in the second detector socket. The manual also recommends trading tubes around if you are experiencing any problems requiring troubleshooting. In…</p>
<p>Hello-</p>
<p>As I continue to use and learn more about this radio now that it is functional, I keep finding new questions. I have a low-resolution/quality Xerox copy of the original owners instruction manual. In the section labeled "TUBES", it says to interchange the type 27 tubes around until you get the loudest signal from whichever tube is in the second detector socket. The manual also recommends trading tubes around if you are experiencing any problems requiring troubleshooting. In the RECEIVER ONLY, is it safe/acceptable to trade tubes around while the power is on? The manual is not clear, but turning the set on/off to swap tubes around seems like it would make it difficult to recall which one produced the loudest signal. As such, I have not yet attempted to trade tubes around to find the 'best' one for that socket.</p>
<p>I find that the left hand dial (oscillator circuit) is very selective. But the right hand dial produces audible reception on any given station across a very broad range. For example, I can hear a station on 880KC from about 800-950KC with the right dial. It is not uniformly loud/clear, but that seems like quite a broad range to be able to hear the station at all. Is this normal operation?</p>
<p>Also- my instruction manual is a poor quality Xerox copy. Has anyone reproduced a high-quality copy of the original manual that I could buy? I've seen some truly excellent reproduction manuals for player pianos and phonographs, so if anyone has done this with the 2 dial AW12 Scott, I'd be quite happy to buy a copy.</p>
<p>Thank you and best regards-</p>
<p>Troy</p> TROYS TRAVAILS got me to take…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2018-10-14:3925821:Comment:678812018-10-14T15:59:11.263ZY2K Brucehttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/Bruce
<p>TROYS TRAVAILS got me to take out again my Scott dual dial AW12and figure out why I had no sound.</p>
<p>It was recently electrically restored by a skilled friend and once home here I was unable to get sound. It traced down to needing a long antenna but most of the issue is the large chrome can over the left side plug in coil.</p>
<p>When installed I get zero sound or reception but when the big can is removed the set plays and sounds very good and loud.</p>
<p>Am running it now on a 105 volt…</p>
<p>TROYS TRAVAILS got me to take out again my Scott dual dial AW12and figure out why I had no sound.</p>
<p>It was recently electrically restored by a skilled friend and once home here I was unable to get sound. It traced down to needing a long antenna but most of the issue is the large chrome can over the left side plug in coil.</p>
<p>When installed I get zero sound or reception but when the big can is removed the set plays and sounds very good and loud.</p>
<p>Am running it now on a 105 volt stepdown Bucky box.</p> As for volume stability, the…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2018-10-14:3925821:Comment:679862018-10-14T02:21:55.980ZDavid C. Polandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/DavidCPoland
<p>As for volume stability, the volume changes you mentioned, check the operating condition of the volume control. With the radio off, disconnect the center lead. Then attach a meter to determine if the resistance changes smoothly. If not try some contact spray. Note - the volume is controlled not like the more modern radios placed in the audio circuit. Rather, it controls the screen grid voltages, thus changing the RF and IF gain.</p>
<p>Yes, a dial lamp short to ground will produce a buzz in…</p>
<p>As for volume stability, the volume changes you mentioned, check the operating condition of the volume control. With the radio off, disconnect the center lead. Then attach a meter to determine if the resistance changes smoothly. If not try some contact spray. Note - the volume is controlled not like the more modern radios placed in the audio circuit. Rather, it controls the screen grid voltages, thus changing the RF and IF gain.</p>
<p>Yes, a dial lamp short to ground will produce a buzz in the sound.</p>
<p>The amp has a HI-LO switch, put in the HI position (for higher line voltage- so the tubes and dial lamp run cooler (less bright) to prolong tube life and reduce set's high voltage a bit,</p>
<p>The instruction manual has instructions about that other grid cap, and use of the short wave coils. Note also that for some short wave coils, the coil cover is removed. </p>
<p>For your next Scott, suggest the single dial models - with the 12 tube Allwave Deluxe 1932-33) or the 15 tube model Fifteen mid 1934-mid1935. BC and SW coils are mounted on an elegantly designed coil wheel inside. Much nicer to operate than the two dial model.</p> Thank you all for the advice.…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2018-10-13:3925821:Comment:678782018-10-13T23:05:32.821ZTroy Taylorhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/TroyTaylor
<p>Thank you all for the advice. As I am going through and cleaning things up on the chassis I am starting to notice details I didn't pay attention to before. I discovered that the dial lamps were rewired at some point in the past and one of the lugs had a big glob of solder on it that was occasionally arcing slightly to the chassis. Would make the lamp dim and have a soft audible crackle. That has been taken care of now.</p>
<p>Now I have a new question though. On the back side of the…</p>
<p>Thank you all for the advice. As I am going through and cleaning things up on the chassis I am starting to notice details I didn't pay attention to before. I discovered that the dial lamps were rewired at some point in the past and one of the lugs had a big glob of solder on it that was occasionally arcing slightly to the chassis. Would make the lamp dim and have a soft audible crackle. That has been taken care of now.</p>
<p>Now I have a new question though. On the back side of the right hand (as you face the radio) tuning condensor is an antenna post and a grid wire with a cap on the end. I believe this is for shortwave use. But it looks to me like it has been modified by someone in the past, since the resistor in there is not 1930s vintage, and there are some lugs that show evidence of formerly having something soldered to them but no longer do. Attached is a picture of what it looks like now. Could anyone please provide a photo of what these components are supposed to look like? Please note that I removed the tube shield from the nearest tube for clarity; it is not missing.</p>
<p>I have been listening to this radio regularly now. Stringing a long wire antenna down the hallway to the farthest wall of my house helped with reception, but I really need to get busy and string up some wire in the attic to do an even better job.</p>
<p>Thank you and best regards-</p>
<p>Troy</p> Troy:
The antenna you are usi…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2018-10-04:3925821:Comment:677102018-10-04T15:30:07.796ZThomas Dayhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ThomasDay
<p>Troy:</p>
<p>The antenna you are using is directional. You can rotate it for best signal from the station.</p>
<p>Troy:</p>
<p>The antenna you are using is directional. You can rotate it for best signal from the station.</p> Troy,
Try checking your tubes…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2018-10-04:3925821:Comment:677982018-10-04T09:10:36.676Zmike hadleyhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/mikehadley
<p>Troy,</p>
<p>Try checking your tubes, gas and low emissions can cause funny things to happen, one of the 58 tubes in my AW15 hissed like an fm radio between stations,</p>
<p>If your signal is drifting up and down slowly it maybe conditions,</p>
<p>try putting a signal generator in another room, this will give you the same type of signal as a distant station, you may have to attach a short wire to the generator, maybe a couple of feet maximum,</p>
<p>I have never tired a Scott on a loop…</p>
<p>Troy,</p>
<p>Try checking your tubes, gas and low emissions can cause funny things to happen, one of the 58 tubes in my AW15 hissed like an fm radio between stations,</p>
<p>If your signal is drifting up and down slowly it maybe conditions,</p>
<p>try putting a signal generator in another room, this will give you the same type of signal as a distant station, you may have to attach a short wire to the generator, maybe a couple of feet maximum,</p>
<p>I have never tired a Scott on a loop antenna, you should have at least 50ft of wire, Scott recommends 80ft,</p>
<p>good luck</p>
<p>Mike</p>