Need help on PhIlharmonic in Los Angeles, Central Valley area of California - EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts2024-03-29T06:58:41Zhttps://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/need-help-on-philharmonic-in-los-angeles-central-valley-area-of?commentId=3925821%3AComment%3A73844&feed=yes&xn_auth=noYup, that is the early chassi…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:738452019-09-02T22:03:36.146ZScott Seickelhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottSeickel
<p>Yup, that is the early chassis. </p>
<p>It is very difficult to find these early ones with the original electrolytic cans in place. They leaked, and leaked early in life. EH Scott even stated in their literature that a small amount of leakage was normal, though that is embarrassingly wrong. </p>
<p>Yup, that is the early chassis. </p>
<p>It is very difficult to find these early ones with the original electrolytic cans in place. They leaked, and leaked early in life. EH Scott even stated in their literature that a small amount of leakage was normal, though that is embarrassingly wrong. </p> Here are the 1st pictures. T…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:738442019-09-02T21:47:54.187ZScott Dicksonhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottDickson
<p>Here are the 1st pictures. The filter cans are in a diamond pattern. …<a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508909513?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508909513?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a> <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508918320?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508918320?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a> <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508919721?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508919721?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a></p>
<p>Here are the 1st pictures. The filter cans are in a diamond pattern. <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508909513?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508909513?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508918320?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508918320?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508919721?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508919721?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508921138?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3508921138?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p> Also, be mindful that there w…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:736382019-09-02T15:42:11.154ZScott Seickelhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottSeickel
<p>Also, be mindful that there was a factory wiring error on a large amount of these amps. The wiring of the 50pF micas and 250k resistors was not symmetrical. The schematic is correct, so just verify against the schematic that your amp doesn't have this issue. The wiring error did not impact performance to a large enough degree that they caught it early. </p>
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<p>Also, be mindful that there was a factory wiring error on a large amount of these amps. The wiring of the 50pF micas and 250k resistors was not symmetrical. The schematic is correct, so just verify against the schematic that your amp doesn't have this issue. The wiring error did not impact performance to a large enough degree that they caught it early. </p>
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<p></p> Scott, were the original elec…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:738432019-09-02T15:20:19.422ZScott Seickelhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottSeickel
<p>Scott, were the original electrolytic can capacitors on the top of the chassis in a diamond pattern? Not clear from your picture, but they almost look to be in a straight line which indicates a later version amp/PS chassis. If you care to, post a picture of the bottom. There were more than one version of this chassis so it may be best to determine which one you have especially in light of the fact that someone has already cut out the original electrolytics. </p>
<p>I tend to purchase my…</p>
<p>Scott, were the original electrolytic can capacitors on the top of the chassis in a diamond pattern? Not clear from your picture, but they almost look to be in a straight line which indicates a later version amp/PS chassis. If you care to, post a picture of the bottom. There were more than one version of this chassis so it may be best to determine which one you have especially in light of the fact that someone has already cut out the original electrolytics. </p>
<p>I tend to purchase my capacitors from Mouser as I prefer the Nichicon or Panasonic brand capacitors. The MIEC capacitors are an off brand that caters to the hobbyist as they are widely available with axial leads. I am not saying they are bad. If you are restuffing existing cans or mounting on a terminal strip, then getting the much more common radial lead packages are generally preferred by me anyway. </p>
<p></p> Thanks guys. This informatio…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:737202019-09-02T14:57:53.165ZScott Dicksonhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottDickson
<p>Thanks guys. This information helps a lot.</p>
<p>Thanks guys. This information helps a lot.</p> Hello-
I buy all my capacitor…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:736332019-09-02T09:10:31.260ZTroy Taylorhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/TroyTaylor
Hello-<br />
I buy all my capacitors from<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.justradios.com/" target="_blank">https://www.justradios.com/</a><br />
<br />
They are located in Ontario but ship to the USA from a post office in New York, so shipping times do not include waiting for packages to clear customs. They specialize in supplying pre-WWII values of caps and resistors used in tube electronics of that era, so many times you are able to get exact values without rounding. The website is a little "busy" in the way it is…
Hello-<br />
I buy all my capacitors from<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.justradios.com/" target="_blank">https://www.justradios.com/</a><br />
<br />
They are located in Ontario but ship to the USA from a post office in New York, so shipping times do not include waiting for packages to clear customs. They specialize in supplying pre-WWII values of caps and resistors used in tube electronics of that era, so many times you are able to get exact values without rounding. The website is a little "busy" in the way it is laid-out, but not too difficult to use once you get used to it. They don't sell New Old Stock either, so everything you buy is modern production.<br />
<br />
The retired tube electronics guru that has been coaching me through various radio restorations has been buying from them exclusively for a number of years and recommended them to me. I have been happy with my orders.<br />
Best regards-<br />
Troy Today, go for the closest mfd…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-02:3925821:Comment:738412019-09-02T03:05:44.053ZDavid C. Polandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/DavidCPoland
<p>Today, go for the closest mfd value that is <span style="text-decoration: underline;">above</span> the capacitance specified in documentation.</p>
<p>Commonly found electrolytic values today are standardized at 4.7 mfd, 10 mfd, 22 mfd, 33 mfd, 47 mfd. at various voltage ratings. I mostly buy 450 volt caps. Folks on <span style="text-decoration: underline;">Antique Radio Forum</span> seem to like Sal's which advertises there (at far right). I usually by buy bagged amounts of, say 20 or so,…</p>
<p>Today, go for the closest mfd value that is <span style="text-decoration: underline;">above</span> the capacitance specified in documentation.</p>
<p>Commonly found electrolytic values today are standardized at 4.7 mfd, 10 mfd, 22 mfd, 33 mfd, 47 mfd. at various voltage ratings. I mostly buy 450 volt caps. Folks on <span style="text-decoration: underline;">Antique Radio Forum</span> seem to like Sal's which advertises there (at far right). I usually by buy bagged amounts of, say 20 or so, instead of buying one or two at a time. Figure I will use them over time. For small quanities, Mark Oppat <a rel="nofollow noopener" href="http://www.oldradioparts.net/caps_lytic.html" target="_blank">http://www.oldradioparts.net/caps_lytic.html</a></p>
<p>There is also Mouser Electronics <a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://www.mouser.com/Electronic-Components/" target="_blank">https://www.mouser.com/Electronic-Components/</a></p>
<p>A terminal strip or two under the amp can be used to mount today's much more compact electrolytic caps. Leave the existing filter caps in place for looks, but disconnect them.</p>
<p>Choose the commonly available 450 volt filter caps. It is possible to find higher voltage units.</p>
<p>So - for 30 mfd, use 33 mfd. For 16 mfd, use 22 mfd. For 40 mfd, use 47 mfd.</p>
<p>For 60 mfd, <span style="text-decoration: underline;">parallel</span> two 33 mfd. 450 volt caps. And so on.</p>
<p>Be sure to observe polarity. Suggest you color code your amp diagram to aid clarity. Red for highest voltages, etc.</p>
<p>NOTE - A couple of the filter caps do NOT connect negative end to ground, but instead to the "below ground" center tapline off the high voltage winding which should be about -28 volts according to the diagram. That 100 mfd cap can be rated at lower voltage like 50 volts or so, and is connected negative to the center tap line and positive to ground. Study the amp diagram carefully.</p>
<p>For small mfd caps like .05, .02, .1 .0022, I just buy 630 volt caps in bags of 25 or so, rather than stocking various voltages.</p> So, here is my first big que…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-09-01:3925821:Comment:737162019-09-01T21:18:38.748ZScott Dicksonhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottDickson
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<p>So, here is my first big question. I want to replace the caps in the amp section. But, I have no stock that will cover the wide variety of values such as listed on Rider 14-47: 60/300v, 40/450v, 30/475v, 60/300v, .1/600v, 16/475v, 500/475v?, 50/475v?,100/50v.</p>
<p>Where will I find these or their approximation for a fair price? <br></br>Also, where can I find a reliable supplier of resistors, if any are out of spec.?</p>
<p>Okay, you can stop laughing... I realize "fair" is probably…</p>
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<p>So, here is my first big question. I want to replace the caps in the amp section. But, I have no stock that will cover the wide variety of values such as listed on Rider 14-47: 60/300v, 40/450v, 30/475v, 60/300v, .1/600v, 16/475v, 500/475v?, 50/475v?,100/50v.</p>
<p>Where will I find these or their approximation for a fair price? <br/>Also, where can I find a reliable supplier of resistors, if any are out of spec.?</p>
<p>Okay, you can stop laughing... I realize "fair" is probably non-existant... LOL</p> Scott - Hmmm. Haven't made a…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-08-29:3925821:Comment:736142019-08-29T04:35:51.628ZDavid C. Polandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/DavidCPoland
<p>Scott - Hmmm. Haven't made a careful study of VR-tube location.</p>
<p>My two standard pointer Phllys have the VR at the rear. Rear VR location would block the extended tuning condenser shaft to the station pre-set housing of a remote control version. My owners manual shows VR at the rear. I seem to recall Kent has a remote control pointer Philly. Wonder if Kent has pointer Philly manual with tube layout diagram with VR at the front by the oscillator?</p>
<p>My remote control non-FM 1940…</p>
<p>Scott - Hmmm. Haven't made a careful study of VR-tube location.</p>
<p>My two standard pointer Phllys have the VR at the rear. Rear VR location would block the extended tuning condenser shaft to the station pre-set housing of a remote control version. My owners manual shows VR at the rear. I seem to recall Kent has a remote control pointer Philly. Wonder if Kent has pointer Philly manual with tube layout diagram with VR at the front by the oscillator?</p>
<p>My remote control non-FM 1940 BOL 9 shaft Philly has the VR by the Osc in front. The owners manual for my non-FM 9 shaft BOL shows the VR at the front by the Osc tube.</p>
<p>Never seen an owners version manual for a <span style="text-decoration: underline;">remote</span> control Philly. Anyone? (or Phantom, Sixteen, Laureate?)</p>
<p>I have seen a number of pointer Phillys at Estes Auction over the years, without noting the VR locations.</p>
<p>I just suspected once the remote control option became available for the Philly, that SCOTT would have gone in the direction of punching chassis consistently with VR relocated to the front, rather than stocking both chassis versions for build up.</p>
<p>Guess you are suggesting Scott stocked two versions of the receiver chassis for awhile - non-remote version and another version for the remote control with relocated VR and punched for the Jones cable socket. I will have to keep an eye out next time I visit Kent and at any other venues.</p>
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<p>The beauty of the Scott Enthusiasts Forum is the exchange of information and expanding our knowledge.</p>
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<p></p> David P., have you ever seen…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2019-08-28:3925821:Comment:738172019-08-28T22:55:33.427ZScott Seickelhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottSeickel
<p>David P., have you ever seen a dial pointer with the VR-150 at the front that wasn't a factory remote? I can't say I ever recall seeing one. It seems to me that the VR-150 went to the front of the chassis (and stayed there) with the introduction of the 7 knob Beam of Light set in late 1938. </p>
<p>David P., have you ever seen a dial pointer with the VR-150 at the front that wasn't a factory remote? I can't say I ever recall seeing one. It seems to me that the VR-150 went to the front of the chassis (and stayed there) with the introduction of the 7 knob Beam of Light set in late 1938. </p>