Rivet tool recommendations - EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts2024-03-28T09:46:32Zhttps://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/rivet-tool-recommendations?commentId=3925821%3AComment%3A87954&feed=yes&xn_auth=noExcellent, Scott. You helped…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-11:3925821:Comment:888082020-10-11T00:59:04.479ZRobert Feenstrahttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/RobertFeenstra
<p>Excellent, Scott. You helped out greatly!</p>
<p>Excellent, Scott. You helped out greatly!</p> Great video Scott! Scott Sei…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-09:3925821:Comment:879542020-10-09T23:46:54.354ZJohn Chidgeyhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JohnChidgey
<p>Great video Scott!<br></br> <br></br> <cite>Scott Seickel said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="https://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/rivet-tool-recommendations#3925821Comment87993"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Below is a video I made on setting the rivets on my Philharmonic. It includes doing the brass eyelets and using a bar to reach into places where you can't get a hammer. I use a cupped set to support the rivet head, and the flaring set to roll it over. I believe I purchased the heads…</p>
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<p>Great video Scott!<br/> <br/> <cite>Scott Seickel said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="https://ehscott.ning.com/forum/topics/rivet-tool-recommendations#3925821Comment87993"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Below is a video I made on setting the rivets on my Philharmonic. It includes doing the brass eyelets and using a bar to reach into places where you can't get a hammer. I use a cupped set to support the rivet head, and the flaring set to roll it over. I believe I purchased the heads from here: </p>
<p><a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/439/Level/a/Default.aspx" target="_blank">https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/439/Level/a...</a></p>
<p>The set holders I machined myself. A steel table holds the cupped set, though a wood bench would be fine as long as it is solid. I did one amp chassis using aluminum to back the head and was not totally happy with it. </p>
<p>The set heads needed to be turned down to a smaller diameter to provide clearance to sockets, etc. </p>
<p>It really doesn't take much force with a hammer to roll over brass rivets. It sounds like I am hitting it harder in the video than I really am. </p>
<p>All in all, setting the rivets by hand is very fast and easy. I spent far more time figuring out socket orientation and where ground lugs went. </p>
<p><a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svwGcx78hD4" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svwGcx78hD4&feature=youtu.be</a></p>
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</blockquote> WOW!! Awesome attention to de…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-09:3925821:Comment:878242020-10-09T13:44:23.064ZBrad Winderhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/BradWinder
<p>WOW!! Awesome attention to detail!</p>
<p>WOW!! Awesome attention to detail!</p> Below is a video I made on se…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-09:3925821:Comment:879932020-10-09T11:36:55.994ZScott Seickelhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/ScottSeickel
<p>Below is a video I made on setting the rivets on my Philharmonic. It includes doing the brass eyelets and using a bar to reach into places where you can't get a hammer. I use a cupped set to support the rivet head, and the flaring set to roll it over. I believe I purchased the heads from here: …</p>
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<p>Below is a video I made on setting the rivets on my Philharmonic. It includes doing the brass eyelets and using a bar to reach into places where you can't get a hammer. I use a cupped set to support the rivet head, and the flaring set to roll it over. I believe I purchased the heads from here: </p>
<p><a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/439/Level/a/Default.aspx" target="_blank">https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/439/Level/a...</a></p>
<p>The set holders I machined myself. A steel table holds the cupped set, though a wood bench would be fine as long as it is solid. I did one amp chassis using aluminum to back the head and was not totally happy with it. </p>
<p>The set heads needed to be turned down to a smaller diameter to provide clearance to sockets, etc. </p>
<p>It really doesn't take much force with a hammer to roll over brass rivets. It sounds like I am hitting it harder in the video than I really am. </p>
<p>All in all, setting the rivets by hand is very fast and easy. I spent far more time figuring out socket orientation and where ground lugs went. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svwGcx78hD4" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svwGcx78hD4&feature=youtu.be</a></p>
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<p></p> That's how I did my 16. I hav…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-06:3925821:Comment:856562020-10-06T00:02:48.222ZRobert Feenstrahttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/RobertFeenstra
<p>That's how I did my 16. I have several pieces of aluminum bar that I use on the rivet head. The aluminum will form a divot that matches the head of the rivet. I also use an aviation rivet squeezer for rivets that are on the side of the chassis. Still, I would like to build a large press that will handle the size of the chassis. I'm not great with a hammer!</p>
<p>That's how I did my 16. I have several pieces of aluminum bar that I use on the rivet head. The aluminum will form a divot that matches the head of the rivet. I also use an aviation rivet squeezer for rivets that are on the side of the chassis. Still, I would like to build a large press that will handle the size of the chassis. I'm not great with a hammer!</p> I set nickel plated brass hol…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-05:3925821:Comment:856442020-10-05T23:30:32.308ZNorman S Braithwaitehttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/NormanSBraithwaite
<p>I set nickel plated brass hollow rivets by hand using a hammer, rivet set, and aluminum mandrel plus a slew of other tools (levers, etc) for starting the set and for setting rivets in hard to access places. I occasionally end up with a split flair but seldom have a bad set.</p>
<p>Norman</p>
<p>I set nickel plated brass hollow rivets by hand using a hammer, rivet set, and aluminum mandrel plus a slew of other tools (levers, etc) for starting the set and for setting rivets in hard to access places. I occasionally end up with a split flair but seldom have a bad set.</p>
<p>Norman</p> Great info.
I have a few shor…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-04:3925821:Comment:849622020-10-04T23:21:57.222ZDavid C. Polandhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/DavidCPoland
<p>Great info.</p>
<p>I have a few short rivets of the type Scott used. I had limited success - by tapping with a standard hammer on a small ball peen hammer placed on the rivet flair against a metal plate, but access limitations galore. The flair is flattened but result is not pretty. Screws and nuts are a lot easier.</p>
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<p>Great info.</p>
<p>I have a few short rivets of the type Scott used. I had limited success - by tapping with a standard hammer on a small ball peen hammer placed on the rivet flair against a metal plate, but access limitations galore. The flair is flattened but result is not pretty. Screws and nuts are a lot easier.</p>
<p></p> Thanks to all for the great i…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-10-04:3925821:Comment:846432020-10-04T15:27:16.698ZJohn Chidgeyhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/JohnChidgey
<p>Thanks to all for the great information.</p>
<p>Thanks to all for the great information.</p> Hello-
Commercial riveting in…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-09-28:3925821:Comment:807922020-09-28T23:52:28.966ZTroy Taylorhttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/TroyTaylor
<p>Hello-</p>
<p>Commercial riveting in sheet metal, particularly in lower volumes like custom-built radios, is done with machines generically referred to as "C-Squeezes". They are used extensively in aerospace manufacturing in general and at the specific company I work for. They are pneumatically operated with a foot pedal, so both hands are free for positioning parts. A threaded tool holder at the bottom of the C permits up/down adjustment for the lower die.</p>
<p>The smallest ones are…</p>
<p>Hello-</p>
<p>Commercial riveting in sheet metal, particularly in lower volumes like custom-built radios, is done with machines generically referred to as "C-Squeezes". They are used extensively in aerospace manufacturing in general and at the specific company I work for. They are pneumatically operated with a foot pedal, so both hands are free for positioning parts. A threaded tool holder at the bottom of the C permits up/down adjustment for the lower die.</p>
<p>The smallest ones are hand-held and they can get very large from there. To buy a new C-Squeeze in a size large enough to accommodate a smallish-Scott chassis will likely cost about $4000+, not including any tooling. A machine with sufficient clearance in the yoke to reach the center of a Philharmonic chassis will be closer to $10,000+ These numbers are approximations, based on past purchases made by previous employers.</p>
<p>For reference, here is the website for General Pneumatic in Post Falls, ID. They are a company that builds quality machines. (DISCLOSURE: I have no personal interest in this company; my opinions are based on machines purchased from them for the companies I have worked for in the past 10 years or so.)</p>
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<p><a href="https://www.generalpneumatic.com/heavyduty.htm" target="_blank">https://www.generalpneumatic.com/heavyduty.htm</a></p>
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<p>The basic technology has not changed in many decades; we are using a few WWII surplus machines in daily production even now at the company where I work, as the largest sizes of machines are, to my knowledge, no longer built new by anyone. Used machines are undoubtedly available, although I do not have a source.</p>
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<p>Tooling for the machines is specific to the type of rivet being used and is also affected by the geometry and clearances of the parts being riveted. Generally speaking, a cupped lower die holds the head of the rivet (specifically mated to the diameter and profile of the particular rivet), and a flat or flaring style die is used on top to clinch the rivet. All the Scott rivets I have seen are flared-type, but I cannot state this is always the case. Rivets being clinched in deep pockets, or with nearby obstacles in the part design, or limited clearances require very specialized tooling.</p>
<p>As such, a considerable portion of tooling used in production is custom designed/machined for the particular parts being riveted. I imagine Scott had toolmakers employed to design/produce specialized rivet tooling as needed.</p>
<p>Generic tooling examples can be found here: <a href="https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/squeezers/squeeze-sets/new" target="_blank">https://www.yardstore.com/riveting/squeezers/squeeze-sets/new</a></p>
<p>Riveting at home is difficult at best. Unless a powered tool (hydraulic or pneumatic) is used, the pressure required will probably necessitate an arbor press. Keeping the upper and lower dies concentric is essential. If the machine is powered, a method for limiting the travel of the cylinder is also essential or parts getting crushed is very likely. The difference between a raw rivet and one that is fully clinched is often 1/16 of an inch or less, particularly on the very small rivets used in radio chassis.</p> I have an AM/FM that I'm goin…tag:ehscott.ning.com,2020-09-28:3925821:Comment:805212020-09-28T14:58:06.817ZRobert Feenstrahttps://ehscott.ning.com/profile/RobertFeenstra
<p>I have an AM/FM that I'm going to have to re-rivet. Been thinking of building something that will handle the entire chassis. Either a mechanical press or a hydraulic press.</p>
<p>I have an AM/FM that I'm going to have to re-rivet. Been thinking of building something that will handle the entire chassis. Either a mechanical press or a hydraulic press.</p>