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Hi,This is my Scott Philharmonic, I am trying to fix it, I would like to know where to plug in REEL TO REEL or phono, how do I switch them?ThankS! Kimi

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Hi Kimi. Welcome to the Scott Enthusiasts web site.

You have a remote control FM/AM/SW Philharmonic. FM band is the obsolete pre-war 42 to 50 MC band.

There is an internal, relay operated radio/phono switch. So you need the keyboard (or a substitute like I made) to operate that radio/phono switch. Keyboards are scarce and came with a  20 wire flat cable and 21 pin Jones plug to fit the big socket on the rear apron. The prewar and post war keyboards look the same but are wired differently.

Your receiver's amp should have the additional a 24 volt step down transformer to power 1) a motor to turn the dial and 2) another motor for the volume control. I do not see a phono terminal strip, so, the small round 4 pin socket you circled may be the phono input socket - trace it out. You may find two of the pins also supply power to a phono motor, so be careful about how you wire a plug, if you can find one that fits. Beware, a similar sized socket on some Scotts was wired to the band switch to control the optional tweeters to operate on FM only. Or perhaps the 2 blade socket you also circled is the phono input. Trace it out.

The correct volume control pot has a double power switch on it- one is the main power switch. The 2nd is for most of the 24 volt motor circuit. The amp's 24 volt transformer is always "ON" so the keyboard can advance the volume control to power on the radio. My AM/SW remote control Philharmonic is plugged into a power strip so the radio is really totally powered off unless I am playing it.

Remember, before WW2, Scott was a custom set builder, and built each example upon receipt of purchase order.

A particular receiver might not exactly agree with a diagram. You want the diagram for the Philharmonic Combination. The separate diagram for the FM circuit is generic for the 33 tube FM Philharmonic and 28 tube FM Phantom models. Hope you have all the big covers for all those exposed coils.

Good luck on your  restoration.

.

Hi David,

Thanks for your help, two pins are connected to the electric switch and the other four pins are connected to a selector switch. I have two original two original tweeters and one woofer, do they still need separate crossovers? Or is the crossover already included in the tuner? I can't figure out the use of the volume expander, including its wiring method, what is its function? My version is 33tubes.

Best,

Kimi



David C. Poland said:

Hi Kimi. Welcome to the Scott Enthusiasts web site.

You have a remote control FM/AM/SW Philharmonic. FM band is the obsolete pre-war 42 to 50 MC band.

There is an internal, relay operated radio/phono switch. So you need the keyboard (or a substitute like I made) to operate that radio/phono switch. Keyboards are scarce and came with a  20 wire flat cable and 21 pin Jones plug to fit the big socket on the rear apron. The prewar and post war keyboards look the same but are wired differently.

Your receiver's amp should have the additional a 24 volt step down transformer to power 1) a motor to turn the dial and 2) another motor for the volume control. I do not see a phono terminal strip, so, the small round 4 pin socket you circled may be the phono input socket - trace it out. You may find two of the pins also supply power to a phono motor, so be careful about how you wire a plug, if you can find one that fits. Beware, a similar sized socket on some Scotts was wired to the band switch to control the optional tweeters to operate on FM only. Or perhaps the 2 blade socket you also circled is the phono input. Trace it out.

The correct volume control pot has a double power switch on it- one is the main power switch. The 2nd is for most of the 24 volt motor circuit. The amp's 24 volt transformer is always "ON" so the keyboard can advance the volume control to power on the radio. My AM/SW remote control Philharmonic is plugged into a power strip so the radio is really totally powered off unless I am playing it.

Remember, before WW2, Scott was a custom set builder, and built each example upon receipt of purchase order.

A particular receiver might not exactly agree with a diagram. You want the diagram for the Philharmonic Combination. The separate diagram for the FM circuit is generic for the 33 tube FM Philharmonic and 28 tube FM Phantom models. Hope you have all the big covers for all those exposed coils.

Good luck on your  restoration.

.

The 24V transformer seems to be missing from the bottom of my amp, I have those caps and they are being re-chromed, but the chassis I just can't get it done. Your remote is great, but I want to look for the original remote. Fixing it is a big project.



David C. Poland said:

嗨,基米。欢迎来到 Scott Enthusiasts 网站。

你有一个遥控器 FM/AM/SW 爱乐。FM 波段是战前过时的 42 到 50 MC 波段。

有一个内部继电器操作的收音机/唱机开关。所以你需要键盘(或我做的替代品)来操作收音机/唱机开关。键盘很稀缺,配有 20 线扁平电缆和 21 针琼斯插头,以适合后围板上的大插座。战前和战后键盘看起来相同,但接线方式不同。

您的接收器的放大器应该有一个额外的 24 伏降压变压器来为 1) 一个用于转动刻度盘的电机和 2) 另一个用于音量控制的电机供电。我没有看到唱机端子排,所以,您圈出的小圆形 4 针插座可能是唱机输入插座 - 找出来。您可能会发现其中两个引脚也为唱机电机供电,因此如果您能找到合适的插头,请注意如何连接插头。请注意,某些 Scotts 上类似尺寸的插座已连接到频段开关,以控制可选的高音扬声器仅在 FM 上运行。或者您也圈出的 2 刀片插座可能是唱机输入。追踪它。

正确的音量控制锅上有一个双电源开关——一个是主电源开关。第二个是大多数 24 伏电机电路。放大器的 24 伏变压器始终处于“开启”状态,因此键盘可以提高音量控制以打开收音机电源。我的 AM/SW 遥控器 Philharmonic 已插入电源板,因此除非我正在播放收音机,否则收音机实际上是完全断电的。

请记住,在 WW2 之前,Scott 是一个自定义集合构建者,并在收到采购订单后构建每个示例。

特定的接收者可能与图表不完全一致。您需要Philharmonic 组合的图表。FM 电路的单独图表适用于 33 管 FM Philharmonic 和 28 管 FM Phantom 型号。希望你有所有这些暴露线圈的所有大盖。

祝你恢复顺利。

.

I got a remote like this and a 21 pin plug, maybe I can retrofit it : )



David C. Poland said:

嗨,基米。欢迎来到 Scott Enthusiasts 网站。

你有一个遥控器 FM/AM/SW 爱乐。FM 波段是战前过时的 42 到 50 MC 波段。

有一个内部继电器操作的收音机/唱机开关。所以你需要键盘(或我做的替代品)来操作收音机/唱机开关。键盘很稀缺,配有 20 线扁平电缆和 21 针琼斯插头,以适合后围板上的大插座。战前和战后键盘看起来相同,但接线方式不同。

您的接收器的放大器应该有一个额外的 24 伏降压变压器来为 1) 一个用于转动刻度盘的电机和 2) 另一个用于音量控制的电机供电。我没有看到唱机端子排,所以,您圈出的小圆形 4 针插座可能是唱机输入插座 - 找出来。您可能会发现其中两个引脚也为唱机电机供电,因此如果您能找到合适的插头,请注意如何连接插头。请注意,某些 Scotts 上类似尺寸的插座已连接到频段开关,以控制可选的高音扬声器仅在 FM 上运行。或者您也圈出的 2 刀片插座可能是唱机输入。追踪它。

正确的音量控制锅上有一个双电源开关——一个是主电源开关。第二个是大多数 24 伏电机电路。放大器的 24 伏变压器始终处于“开启”状态,因此键盘可以提高音量控制以打开收音机电源。我的 AM/SW 遥控器 Philharmonic 已插入电源板,因此除非我正在播放收音机,否则收音机实际上是完全断电的。

请记住,在 WW2 之前,Scott 是一个自定义集合构建者,并在收到采购订单后构建每个示例。

特定的接收者可能与图表不完全一致。您需要Philharmonic 组合的图表。FM 电路的单独图表适用于 33 管 FM Philharmonic 和 28 管 FM Phantom 型号。希望你有所有这些暴露线圈的所有大盖。

祝你恢复顺利。

.

Your amp is an early remote amp.   The matching amp for this set used a 5U4 rectifier.   It is a remote amp because it has the extra 4 pin socket on it which was added to early amps only used with remote sets.   Later amps all had that socket as it was used to switch power on and off.    This amp you have will work fine, you just need to add a 24v transformer and wire it properly to the 4 pin socket.  You need to carefully address all the mechanics, like clean and lube all moving parts. 

One of the small 4 pin sockets on the tuner back was used for tweeter switching.  The other one might very well be a phono input, but this is a different setup than what was used on the non-remote sets.  As Dave stated, you need to trace it out. 

This set is very complicated and needs to be very carefully restored.  All the electrolytic and paper capacitors need to be replaced.  It is a big job and not for the inexperienced technician, especially on the remote sets where access is even more difficult than non-remote sets. 

I hope your rechromer knows what they are doing.  Those aluminum covers are very difficult to rechrome especially when they are heavily pitted. 

Can't help you more than that other than saying that as the electrical restoration goes along, everything should fall into place as to what socket is for what feature.  I would not attempt to power this set up until at least the amp was restored. 

The remote control FM Philharmonic does not have the volume expander. This 4 tube feature was dropped to help make room for the FM circuit. And the expander eye tube on the right was repurposed as the FM tuning indicator.

For mounting 24 volt step down transformer, look for 4 unused holes on the side apron, mid chassis. and the 24 volt wires go to the other 2 pins on the 2 pin socket and your receiver has a 2nd 4 pin set plug for AC to the power switch on the volume control.

That big semi-circular housing on the rear of the receiver has the adjustable station presets for the keyboard. The 16 button keyboard has:  volume up, volume down, radio, phono, and 12 buttons for the 12 station presets. in addition the cable has wires to the keyboard panel lamp, and a common 24 volts live goes to the keyboard regardless if the radio is ON or OFF. The various buttons complete a connection to ground to run a motor or the radio/phono relay. The big wheel has a big split metal plate, the gap provides an electrical stop when the station button being pushed reaches the station selected.  

AS for the tweeters - depends on what you have. In all case below,  the main speaker had a 925 ohm field coil tapped at 525 ohms in the high voltage B+ circuit. The Amp's 7 pin speaker socket was consistent regardless of the speaker(s) selected by the buyer.

1) The Scott optional 4 unit Hi-Fidelity Speaker System of 1940-41 consisted of an outboard crossover with the output transformer and a flange mount 15 inch 8 ohm speaker with small 5 pin plug fitting a crossover socket. The big speaker has no output transformer mounted on the speaker. Each of two PM tweeters had a small 2 pin plug fitting two sockets on the crossover.  Scott documentation is inconsistent on whether the tweeters are 8 ohm or 16 ohm, by mine are 16 ohm.

The Scott Phantom Deluxe appears to offer the same optional hi-fi speaker system, but the main speaker might be 12 inch instead of 15 inch.

2) If you have the pair of field coil tweeter, and each has its own small 4 pin plug, then the correct crossover also has a rectifier tube to power tweeter field coils.

3) But if the radio was ordered with only the standard 38 ohm field coil speaker 15 inch speaker, it has its own output speaker mounted on the speaker:

- If it is the 15 inch pedestal speaker, it has one 2 pin socket on the base for a single cable for the two pm tweeters wired in series with a 2 MFD cap as a crossover.

-But if it is the standard flange mount 38 ohm speaker with output transformer, Scott intended no tweeters. But, one could access the speaker terminal strip, and wire in a pair of 16 ohm tweets in series with a 2 MFD film cap.

*suggest you post a photo of the speaker and tweeters you do have.

As for the crossover,

- One version had just the one cable to the Amp and the tweeters were always ON.

- The other version has a 2nd smaller cable with 4 pin plug that fits into a small socket on the receiver rear apron.

That small socket (if not the phono input - trace it out) connects to the rear most wafer on the band switch so as change the speaker's operation. The tweeters operate only when on the FM band to extend frequency range to 16K hertz, and the main speaker is changed to woofer frequencies only. On any other AM band, the tweeters are switched OFF and the main speaker operates as a wide range mode up to 9K hertz or so. So, if you use the phono input for, say, an CD player, you probably want the band switch on the FM band.

And remember, Scott was a custom set builder, so a particular example my vary from documentation.

fXInv3.jpeg.   keyboard

IMG_1432.JPG. early crossover.

IMG_1430.JPG later crossover, this one with rectifier tube for field coil tweets.

Hi,My cabinet and Q4 tweeter + 12" woofer are connected by a Y cable to the amp. They originally belonged to Aw23's home, but I love Philharmonic.I haven't received them yet, may arrive tomorrow, I gave up the AW23 receiver and amp.Thanks!


 Field coil is probably not the same, voice coils came in 19 or 38 ohms on the 12"  I believe, and the tweeters are field coil units.  I would have to look up the specs for the AW23 vs the Philharmonic speakers, but I highly doubt they will be "plug and play".   

The AW-23 tweeters will not work with the Philharmonic and the Philharmonic tuner chassis will stick out the back of the Laureate Grande cabinet made for the AW-23 by 3- to 4-inches if it fits at all.  The width of the tuner compartment may be to narrow for the Philharmonic tuner chassis and if not, you will not be able to push it up to the faceboard.

Norman 

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