What you have on it is very similar to the original. This set used a pointer that was also found on other sets of the period. Keep watching and we may find you one.

Kent

Kent

I have looked at whatever pictures I could find of the Masterpiece and the pointer in this photo seems to be correct, quite a lot of detail and a very attractive pointer. I'm sure you can confirm if this right one. The Super XII seemed to use one that was a bit different. I have never seen either so it is hard to tell from photos. 

Yes, that close up is the correct dial pointer for your Scott           Masterpiece.

The Super 12 and Masterpiece used this same dial pointer, ...    except  for the early production Super 12. Most Super 12 and all Masterpiece used the same "Stradivarius" dial.  Most Masterpiece examples included the optional 5th Ultra High band needed to receive the AM audio for the pre war TV transmissions.  In those examples, the 5 th band was wired to the band switch position labeled P and the phono switch relocated to the band width Fidelity switch.

The Masterpiece is pretty much a Super12 with souped up audio with two 6J5 triodes in push pill to drive the 6V6 output tubes. The 2 additional controls first appeared in very late Super 12 production ( I had one).

In contrast, early Super 12 production had a different black dial with graphics like a scaled down version of the pointer Philharmonic dial, including a small 3rd pointer logging scale.  This early Scott Super 12 dial sported the same dial pointer as the Scott Sixteen.

David

I see in the collector guide a picture of the Super XII with the pointer you refer to, same as the Sixteen. I don't see a screw in the middle so it must push on the shaft. As Kent noted, there may be other radios from the same period with similar pointers.

As for the "souped up audio", they did a pretty good job on this. It is a very good sounding audio section! My set did not come with a speaker, I made an adapter using a universal output transformer and a couple of adjustable power resistors. This works fine and allows for the use of any permanent magnet speaker. I don't expect to find a speaker anytime soon, so this makes waiting a bit easier. Even if a speaker shows up one would have to hope it had a good field coil and output transformer.

Your Scott Masterpiece used the same 12 inch, flange mount speaker as the model Sixteen and  19 tube Phantom. The speaker cable used the 8 pin octal style plug, which is a pretty good way to identify it . Has a curvilineal cone and had a paper sound diffuser screwed to the pole piece, sometimes missing. The output transformer is attached to the speaker frame. Has a Scott decal and the cover on the terminal strip is embossed with Magnavox. Has a 38 ohm voice coil

IMG_0314.jpeg They do turn up on eBay.

Nice looking adapter. Pre war speakers were not standardized to 4,8 or 16 ohm voice coils.

If you find a speaker with a bad output transformer, the 15 watt 125E you installed in your adapter is a good choice. Use the 16 ohm lugs, but you will need to add about 20 turns of wire  to the # 6 lug around the core to further reduce the ratio of secondary to primary to make a 7th lug. Observe the direction of turns lest you reduce the output impedance towards 8 ohm instead of increasing towards 38 ohms for the 38 ohm voice coil.  

Fun huh?

My Scott Masterpiece came in the somewhat rare Mayfair, a smaller sized radio/phono credenza. A CD player into the phono input produced impressive, full sound, especially with the opening track of La La Land movie soundtrack.

David

Thanks for tip on the output transformer. I see you had a detailed discussion about this on another thread and posted pictures of the transformer you modified. If I find a speaker with a dead transformer I will do the same.

Yep, I had to deal with that output transformer problem some years ago and had to figure what to do. As far as I know, it is still working in Circleville OH in a Scott Masterpiece I restored for the inherited family radio. He had the rough Mayfair radio/phono credenza and we did a cabinet trade as part of the deal. He got a fancy 1930 FADA low boy. DSCF3813.JPG.  I did a lot of work on the Mayfair DSCF3968.JPG

With regard to sound quality, a pair of 6V6 output tubes was fairly popular in 1950 hi fi amps and guitar amps of that era. Indeed, a couple years ago, my mechanical engineer grandson with continuing interest in music performance and arranging bought a new production Fender retro guitar amp with ... wait for it ... 6V6  output tubes. (They are foreign manufacture,  but, Hey!   if he should want vintage US 6V6 GT tubes, I have a good used pair. )

If you decide to make a wood front panel, use 3/8 " ply, preferably with furniture grade plywood. (Woodcraft store).  This thickness is correct for the control shaft lengths. I made the Masterpiece panel to fit the FADA cabinet, with book matched Walnut veneer.  The 2 front holes at the extreme front edge corners of your receiver are for studs to position the chassis against a cabinet front. With patience, you may find a dial crystal and a set of round control escutcheons. A Phantom control escutcheon set would do also. Super 12 used the same dial crystal.

DSCF3969.JPG

I can throughly reccomend bosh jigsaw blades, t308 or t101 for smaller radius cuts, hardly any tearout.

I made the fron panel for my philharmonic from 9mm ply and one of these blades

David

Yes, I am planning to make a front panel. I have a tuning eye escutcheon, so at least have one hard to find part. I have a dial crystal that should work, it is 5 5/8" on the inside and 6 1/4" on the outside, and will require a 5 7/8" hole. It seems close to the right size, and the brass has a decent patina so I don't think it will look too bad. If I ever find the correct bezel it might even work with the 5 7/8" hole, at worst the panel could be used as a template. My radio did not have the studs you mentioned, but have seen them in pictures. I think I saw a photo of a Super XII that had vertical brackets attached to these points which looked like panel supports. I may be able to use these points to secure the top of the panel. I still have a couple of the thread extenders that my machinist friend made for me, they will work well to attach the bottom of the panel using the outer 2 controls. I think is worth trying to make this, I might eventually find an escutcheon set and dial crystal. If I find a proper pointer I would prefer to have it protected and this would do the job.

Mike, I have used those blades and they work great. You did an amazing job on that front panel! I doubt if I could have done all those cuts without botching something. By contrast, the panel I propose to make only needs one round hole and the edges will be covered so will be pretty hard to mess up.