I am working on a very early Philharmonic (single letter prefix). There are very few tubular wax caps in it, almost all are large mica caps like these. Most of the .05 bypass caps are these mica units. Many are testing leaky, so I'm recapping as usual. These do appear to be original (no resoldering, caps located in impossible places, etc.). They are tougher to replace because they are harder to physically remove than the tubular Sprague units.
My question: has anyone else encountered a Philly with caps like this?
Kent
Alex R. Whitaker
The pointer dial Philharmonic I overhauled about 25 years ago was full of these. I don't remember the serial number.....I swapped some stuff to Mike Clark for it.
Mar 1
Bob Snively
Kent,
I used a push/pull switch similar to the one listed on Amazon. It's not exactly the same switch, but it appears to be very similar. It allowed me to replace my broken rotary switch (original to the remote control model) and I replaced the threaded chrome knob with a custom made brass one that my friend turned on his lathe. I wrapped the housing of the switch with fish paper due to its proximity to everything else in the tight area of the tuning motor. It works great and created the same look as a non-remote model.
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Push-Pull-Switch-6-28V/dp/B07XJ9H...
Mar 3
Kent King
One other item regarding this fairly early Philly: The grid caps. The set used the ones on the right. These had bent tabs (one broken off) and they simply do not grip the tube caps very nicely. I went through and replaced them with the later style as seen on the left. (I replace all the wires out of the cans when I remove them to replace the pass-through caps anyway). I don't recall seeing those awful grid caps on other Phillies - another early design that was quickly changed?
Mar 9