EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts
The Fine Things are Always Hand Made
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You start out with this rivet flaring set here:
And this rivet cupped set here:
The cupped set is the one that I mount in my bench and it holds the rivet head. Some people have used aluminum plate instead, but I have found that my results are superior using the rivet cup to hold the head.
Put the flaring set in a lathe and turn it down to approx 0.3" diameter. This is small enough to allow you clearance to sockets, etc.
I used a piece of cold rolled steel, 9/16" diameter x 6" long to make my flaring holder, but you can use a piece a bit smaller or larger in diameter. Dimensions are not critical.
Drill a hole 3/16" diameter in the end to accept the rivet flaring set, and turn the nose of the steel bar down to the same diameter as the flaring set to allow clearance for sockets, etc.
Insert the rivet flaring set and you are ready to go.
For the other tool, I used a piece of 1/2" thick by 1-1/8 tall steel bar. I milled the nose down to allow clearance for sockets, etc. These dimensions are not critical. Anything close in size to this will work.
Bar is about 13" long. This seems to be a decent size, but again, not critical as long as it is not a lot shorter.
Drill a 3/16" hole to accept the rivet flaring set and you are ready to go.
Put it all together in a nice kit. :-)
I used cold rolled steel for the round set handle. It is rounding over a little after doing 4 amps and a Philharmonic tuner chassis, but still plenty of life left in it. If I had some 4140 prehard on hand, I would have used that. For the bar tool, plain CRS is plenty hard.
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