The Fine Things are Always Hand Made
In reading thru a 1938 issue of the Scott News, there is an article on the above antenna, with a schematic of the filter. Is there any other information as to component values used? As a technician this of interest to me.
Thanks
Thom
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And the related question, is the 1938 version a Scott design ... or by another and merely sold by Scott.
The drawings in the September 1938 Scott News issue of the several designs offered as the Scott antenna systems evolved over the during the 1930's is a nice chronological review. I have never seen any documentation on component values, however. I have seen a complete example of the 1938 antenna system in another's collection (wires, filter box and lead-in, new in box as I recall.). I know only that the filter network is attached at the conjunction of the outdoor flat top wires. Being outdoors, not many would have survived all these years.
Thanks for the reply. I have been reading thru the latest ARRL antenna handbook for information, but those systems are primarily used for transmitting. Receiving antennas should be less complicated. I am currently using a roof mounted 53 foot long wire connected to the antenna post of my Allwave 23. It seems to work fairly well.
Thom
Thomas,
I suggest you instead consider reproducing the 1934 version antenna of fig 4 of the Scott News article for your AW-23. This version Scott super antenna was designed for AW-15 and continued for AW-23 models having a single antenna post. The twisted lead-in requires the antenna coupler (the small chromed Broadcast/Shortwave switch that was hung on a tube shield). Being inside, this coupler is not destroyed by outside conditions like the 1938 version antenna filter unit and so, this version coupler switch occasionally turns up on ebay or at auctions and swap meets.
During the run of the later AW-23 7 knob model, the antenna circuit was redesigned so that the outboard coupler switch was no longer needed - recognized by the addition of a 2nd antenna post. The Scott Philly and Sixteen and subsequent Scott models all have the pair of antenna terminals along with the ground terminal. Find the 4 page instruction sheet in Scott Docs for this version antenna for the dimensions and angles of the double doublet, and note that the twisted lead-in must be 110 feet (or twice that at 220 ft).
I reproduced for my Philharmonic the 1934 version double dipole as per fig 4 of the Scott News article. The Philly with the 2 antenna terminal screws just doesn't need the coupler. Later I inserted a 6 position 2 pole rotary switch into the 110 ft length of lead-in, so I could direct the twin leads to any of several Scotts, so as to maintain the correct 110 foot length overall for each radio.
Hi David:
My radio has the outboard coupler. I have the info and considered building the double doublet antenna for this radio, but I don't have the room to put it up. The antenna I am using is mounted in a V configuration on the West end of the house with the ends about 12 feet apart and the center about half way down the peak of the roof. If you look, it can be seen from the street. I bought the antenna from a ham operator. He put in a coupling network that feeds a coax, which I have connected directly to the antenna post. According to him, the coax transfers the impedance of the antenna to the radio with out needing anything else in the line. Now, if I could convince the owners of the flat roofed two flat next to us, I would have room to install the double doublet and it would be about 5 feet higher off the ground.
Thom
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