The Fine Things are Always Hand Made
Remove the top and tubes. Locate the two wires that come up from below through the grommets on the metal plate. Unsolder these wires, remove the screws holding the two terminal strips and remove the 8 screws holding the plate in place.
Now remove the metal plate pulling it up and away from the end where the two external leads go out near the top.
Now you can see the two pull posts mounted on the chassis. Remove the 8 screws holding the chassis.
I fashioned a puller from an old wire coat hanger:
Hook the two ends into the pulling posts:
These pull HARD...you can work up a sweat getting the chassis out. Be careful to push in enough of the power cord to allow the chassis to move upward. Pull it at an angle away from the two large leads at the top too.
Finally, you have the chassis out where it can be recapped. These are hard to work on, you need to remove the components at the bottom of the chassis to remove the lower bakelite plate so you can replace the caps in the middle layer. Replace all caps and check resistors for tolerance.
Finally - TEST the unit before putting the chassis back in the case. You don't want to pull it again!
THAT looks amazing, but a ton of work! How much alignment is needed to get it operating perfectly?
There are no adjustments within the unit itself that you can't reach with the unit assembled. So if you check the resistors, replace caps and have good tubes, you will probably get good results. This particular unit works extremely well, it is in the Valencia set I recently purchased. As I said, these are a real pain to work on but do provide some great results.
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