How do you support your Scott chassis while working on it?

[Scott Seickel]

Well, that was my dilemma when I got my Philharmonic.   Most radio chassis are a lot smaller and have a power transformer that you can rest on to hold the chassis.  There is no way I could work underneath this chassis without damaging something on the top side.  What I needed was a chassis stand.  So off to the shop.  I welded one out of thin wall (0.049") 1-1/4" sq tubing.  It is very strong and light weight at 13 pounds.  It will handle a Philharmonic and allow 360 degrees of rotation, and it will also allow an AW23 to bolt to the flanges. Loosen the end knobs and the chassis rotates easily and is fairly well balanced due to the offset of the pivot points.   Probably 10 hours of work, but well worth it.  The pictures below are of one that I just made for a member here who is trading me for this stand.  I have one just like it that I previously made for myself.  The pics show an AW-23 mounted and a Philharmonic.  The AW uses 4 thru bolts to hold it and the Philharmonic uses 2 tapped holes it has in the bottom plus 2 bolts that act as clamps.

 

[David C. Poland]

Nice design. The early 1930's 12 and 15 tube sets are the same width and should fit, although additional holes will be needed to match placement of the holes for the bottom plate on those sets.

Now if you just modified the two bottom rails, perhaps using some "L" stock and wing nuts, you could adjust the width of your rack to accommodate the other Scott models.

-Dave

[Scott Seickel]

Adapters can be used on the mounting arms to mount smaller width chassis.  They need be nothing more than simple 1/8" x 1" flat stock.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

My first use of the Philharmonic chassis support jig built by Scott, a Garrard RC-1 record changer ready for cleaning, lubricating, testing, and adjustment.  The universal adapter is constructed from 1/8-inch steel flat and angle stock.  This photo shows the wrong way to mount the record changer!  The center of gravity is about 4.5-inches from the pivots mounted this way and it is difficult to hold the chassis in any position other than as shown and balanced upside down.  I have mounted the next project, a Garrard RC-1A, the other way making it much easier to handle and having much less risk of the chassis loosing stability.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

It may indeed!  Send your cabinet to me and I will check.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Initially Scott offered the General Industries "Packard" record changer as an accessory with the AW-23.  Around September 1936 Scott switched to the Garrard RC-1.  I have heard of a Capehart 10-12 changer being original to an Allwave 15 console but not to later Scott models.  Philco used the Capehart 10-12 well into the late 1930s.

[F Stephen Masek]

Excellent design.  I've got a lot of work to do on my damaged Philharmonic (seller hacked out all of the controls), so I'll need something like that. 

[Ken Carr]

This is a wonderful rack!
I don't weld but I am thinking that with some angle iron and a few bolts...

[Angelo]

That could be made with wood too.Some don't weld so woods another option. Very nice work ...

[Scott Seickel]

Depending on how soon you will be needing a stand, I may be letting this one go.  I have been thinking about making a new one that has more adjustment options to cover all chassis sizes from the largest to the smallest.  This stand was specifically designed for the Philharmonic and AW23 chassis.  It can be adapted for other chassis, but may not be ideal.  I just don't know how anyone can work on a large Scott chassis without a stand of any sorts.  Turning the chassis over will damage the covers, and if covers are not installed, you will potentially break the transformers inside.  I guess you could have a spare set of junk covers to support your chassis with when it is upside down. 

I do see a big advantage of being able to easily rotate the chassis 360 degrees and put it into any position when working on it.  There are some tough spots to get into on the Philharmonics.

If I do get to build a new one, I will probably go with cnc machined aluminum with width/height adjustments via dovetail slides.  Once a design is done, maybe I will see if collectors would be interested in a group purchase as it would make costs less. 

[Bill Liers]

Very nice work!

I go the more basic route. I have a pair of 10" "L" brackets that get screwed right to the bottom of the chassis extending to the rear and sit about 2 inches from the rear panel. They're lightweight, don't get in the way and now have mounting holes for most chassis I've worked on. Also great when you work on German sets with components on the sides.

[Scott Seickel]

There is a video on You Tube of the manufacturer of an AW-15.  Scott used a neat stand  for manufacture, but I think for servicing being able to rotate to any angle is a big benefit.

[Ken Carr]

Bill,
If you get a chance, please post a photo of your L-Bracket rack.
Thanks.

Bill Liers said:

Very nice work!

I go the more basic route. I have a pair of 10" "L" brackets that get screwed right to the bottom of the chassis extending to the rear and sit about 2 inches from the rear panel. They're lightweight, don't get in the way and now have mounting holes for most chassis I've worked on. Also great when you work on German sets with components on the sides.