EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts

The Fine Things are Always Hand Made

Glad to have found this website!

As a retired hobby, I've restored over 100 radios in the last 9 years or so. And I'm finally getting around to my first E.H. Scott, which is an AM/FM Phantom deluxe in a Chippendale Grande cabinet. To see some of my work, check eBay for a Sparton 1268. One of the few I currently have listed.

Info is really all I need now. After checking all the usual schematic sites, including the ones here, and my original Rider's, I can't find an appropriate schematic. This is a 22 tube (including the voltage regulator and 2 eye tubes) chassis, not including the amp. It originally had the 3 speaker system, but the only thing left is the woofer and the crossover.

Also, it's missing 3 tube shields, and 15 out of the 16 shield caps. Other than continuously checkin eBay for these, are there any available elsewhere? 

I'm in the process of stripping the entire cabinet now, and it looks like the chassis will have to be rechromed.

Thanks for listening to me, and I look forward to any replies.

Pat

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To date no full schematic has been found for the AM-FM Phantom.  Use the Phantom Deluxe schematic along with the FM data schematic.  Most four unit speaker systems used PM tweeters.  Approaching WWII with magnets in demand for war production, some four unit speaker systems used field coil tweeters.  If your set used the PM tweeters, any pair of 8-ohm, 5-inch tweeters will work.  If not, resistors or chokes will be required to replace the field coils.

Norman

Thanks Norman. I'll investigate it further.

If the crossover has a rectifier tube, then it used field coil tweeters with 4 pin plugs. Otherwise, with no rectifier, PM tweeters and 2 pin plugs. Absent appropriate small plugs, banana plugs will fit the socket holes. 

The crossover includes the output transformer for all speakers. IF your crossover includes a 2nd small cable with small 4 pin plug, the plug fits a small 4 pin socket on the receiver rear apron  - which connects to a wafer on the band switch to control the tweeter for operation on the FM band only. Earlier crossovers and receivers did not have that small connector. Caution, earlier Phantoms used the same small rear apron socket for the phono input.

Speaker information is in Riders - Vol 14, Scott page 12 for early version if NO small set cable.

                                                      vol 14,  Scott page 15 for later version WITH small set cable

Good Luck!

Thanks David. No rectifier on the crossover. Has two 2 pin plugs, one 4 pin, and one 5 pin. But does that mean that the tweeters would work only on the FM band, which would never be used because of the frequencies?

David C. Poland said:

If the crossover has a rectifier tube, then it used field coil tweeters with 4 pin plugs. Otherwise, with no rectifier, PM tweeters and 2 pin plugs. Absent appropriate small plugs, banana plugs will fit the socket holes. 

The crossover includes the output transformer for all speakers. IF your crossover includes a 2nd small cable with small 4 pin plug, the plug fits a small 4 pin socket on the receiver rear apron  - which connects to a wafer on the band switch to control the tweeter for operation on the FM band only. Earlier crossovers and receivers did not have that small connector. Caution, earlier Phantoms used the same small rear apron socket for the phono input.

Speaker information is in Riders - Vol 14, Scott page 12 for early version if NO small set cable.

                                                      vol 14,  Scott page 15 for later version WITH small set cable

Good Luck!

Tweeters were designed to only work on FM if there is a cord with a small four pin plug that fits a socket on the back of the tuner chassis. Not all sets were so equipped. If your set is equipped with the tweeter cut-out you can override it by shorting two pins on the plug.
Norman

That should be easy to figure out. Thanks.

Norman S Braithwaite said:

Tweeters were designed to only work on FM if there is a cord with a small four pin plug that fits a socket on the back of the tuner chassis. Not all sets were so equipped. If your set is equipped with the tweeter cut-out you can override it by shorting two pins on the plug.
Norman

Got another question. This unit was completely re-capped sometime in the past with green Dubilier and brown drop El-Menco capacitors. I have little experience with either. Would it be advisable to re-recap this unit?

There should be no need to replace them provided they are truly epoxy dipped.  I know that Dubilier made green paper capacitors, that were plastic encased and tubular, not your conventional epoxy dipped units, and they might be paper.   You can test one just for a piece of mind if you desire.  A true epoxy dipped capacitor like the classic "orange drops" are film capacitors. 

That was my thought, also. There are so few of the Dubiliers that it would just make sense to replace them, and leave the EMs of which there are many. I need to ohm out all the resistors anyway so I'll be digging in there. One step at a time.

Scott Seickel said:

There should be no need to replace them provided they are truly epoxy dipped.  I know that Dubilier made green paper capacitors, that were plastic encased and tubular, not your conventional epoxy dipped units, and they might be paper.   You can test one just for a piece of mind if you desire.  A true epoxy dipped capacitor like the classic "orange drops" are film capacitors. 

The green Dublier capacitors are difilm and should be as reliable as the EM dipped epoxy capacitors.

Norman

Glad I saw your response before I started! Thanks. The existing speaker is a 12" high fidelity. Since I have the crossover for PM tweeters, and I can bypass the FM only output for the tweeters, AND I'm not going to spend the money some people want for tweeters, when you can find them, are there any recommendations for high quality PM tweeters?

Norman S Braithwaite said:

The green Dublier capacitors are difilm and should be as reliable as the EM dipped epoxy capacitors.

Norman

Dubilier made green tubular capacitors that are paper/Mylar.   The capacitor would have PM in the number that stands for paper/Mylar.     They might test ok for leakage, but they are unreliable.    If that is what you have, toss them.  

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