Philly Loose Ends during Startup

[Joe Miller]

I've recapped my dial pointer Philly and it plays good on all bands, but I have a few nagging issues that I would like to take care of before I start the alignment.  I want to make sure these are real problems and not "operator error". 

1.  When I rotate the sensitivity control I get increasing gain as expected, but there is a very narrow spot just off the CCW position that increases gain to the  max.  I've shot the pot with cleaner but no change.  I assume this is not normal, correct?

2.  When I turn the expander control on, the expander eye tube opens up indicating maximum expansion but I can't hear any difference.  Once I turn the expander on, the eye tube remains open no matter what other actions I take (tune off station, rotate the expander pot, rotate the selectivity control, etc.)  I've rechecked the expander wiring and all looks fine.  How is this feature supposed to work and is there a good way to test it?

3.  Every once in a while, the set seems to almost want to go into an oscillation, but it doesn't.  Not sure what this means.

Tomorrow I am going to recheck all supply and tube voltages.  Any other ideas on problems 1-3 above?

Thanks,
Joe

[David C. Poland]

The red color inner vernier is a surprise. Mine is the same white as the main pointer.
I have what Norman calls a "stationized' Never before noticed the top end is shorter than the other end. Makes sense however.
And my dial light for the band selected travels directly behind the pointer.
Joe - How about a photo of your dial.

[Scott Seickel]

My inner pointer is white also.  It is the non "stationized" dial and the needle is perfectly symmetrical.

I was thinking about purchasing a "stationized" dial for this set as the original is shot.

 Would it not work as a direct swap out?

How long did it take Radio Daze to get your dial Joe?

[Joe Miller]

My original dial was the non  "stationized " version.  I replaced it like for like with a very nice repro from Radio Daze.  I received it in less than a week.

My dial pointer is like yours, Scott.  Sounds like the "stationized" version used a different pointer (non symmetrical vs. symmetrical).  Other than that I think the dials themselves are interchangeable.

Use caution when removing the second hand.  You can easily impact the meshing of its gear with the drive gear that turns it, particularly if the second hand is stuck on the shaft.

My second hand is red.  I will send a picture when I get it back on.

My green dot is now perfectly aligned with the station.  I am amazed at its accuracy.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

They are not really interchangeable.  The stationized dial sets had four traveling lamps in the upper half of the dial whereas the non-stationized dial sets had three.  The spacing of lamps in the upper half of the dial differs.

Norman

[Joe Miller]

Nice catch Norman.  BTW have you seen any other Philly's with the red vernier pointer?

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Joe:  I can't say that I have.  What is the length of your red vernier pointer and is the end cut or stamped?  There is a possibility that you have a replacement garnered from a clock.  If it were on one of my sets, whether or not it is original I would keep it red.  I like the idea of a red vernier pointer but I would not repaint an original red unless I had reasonably conclusive knowledge that it was originally offered in red.

Norman

[Joe Miller]

My red vernier pointer is 2.75 inches, it was originally red (I touched it up a bit), and appears to be original--fits too perfectly and has not been shortened.  See picture, playing great, tuned to 890 WLS.

This baby is all done and I am happy with it.  All I need to do now is:

1.  Get a brighter 6G5 tube (tuning indicator)

2.  Find a lamp shield for one of my edge lamps

3.  Clean up the Warrington cabinet

4.  Replace the speaker cloth (I have replacement cloth in hand)

5.  Finish marking up changes on Scott's schematic and send to him (I'm working on that right now, Scott)

6.  Beat the wife (just kidding, checking to see if you are paying attention)

On to the next challenge,

Joe

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Joe:  Nice radio.  I hate to be the bearer of bad news but both of your pointers are incorrect.  The main pointer should extend through the outside bands on both ends and the vernier pointer should extend only slightly past the vernier scale.

Norman

[Joe Miller]

Well, darn.

Looks like I need to add "find 2 dial pointers" to my list.

Thanks for the info,

Joe

[Scott Seickel]

I am pretty sure I have an edge light cover I can send you for the cost of shipping.

I can also make a scan of my pointers if need be, then you can make a cad drawing and have a local metal shop fabricate. I have a guy fairly locally who will laser cut any metal pattern you can imagine up to 1/4" thick. Try to source one first from a parts set that someone may have, but if you can't get one, you may be waiting a good long time for one to become available. Unfortunately, the parts set I just acquired does not have a dial.

Norman, thanks for the heads up on the stationized dials...I may have ordered an East coast one to replace the current non-stationized one on my set....that would have been an oops!

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Joe:  The vernier pointer will be difficult to reproduce because of the way it mounts.  The incorrect on on your set should be sufficient if cut to the correct length.  If you do get to the point of having the main pointer reproduced, poll the membership here to see if it may be worthwhile to produce a small lot.  The cost of the first one will be much greater than subsequent copies.

Norman

[Joe Miller]

Norm,
We are thinking alike. I figured I would just cut the vernier once I get the exact length. It actually is a perfect fit on the shaft and that fitting is a bit unique, so I got lucky on that.

And yes on the main pointer. If I find someone who can do the job I will check with everyone here.

Thanks for the good idea.
Joe