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The Fine Things are Always Hand Made

Norm.... I've experimented with your (vinegar turpentine linseed oil) mixture. Very satisfying results as I was unsure whether it would dry so well. Question is how do you proceed with this new surface ?

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After wiping off the excess, I just keep the surface clean and dusted with an occasional polish using a product containing no silicone.


Yes, I also avoid the beeswax types to avoid buildup. Guardsman makes such, not sure of any automotive types. Most claim to contain "good and bad" silicones. Not sure about that. Anyone have other favorites ?

I have used Johnsons paste wax in recent years. (yes - the yellow tin floor wax). On workshop machinerysurfaces and on cabinets. Use sparingly and polish out well.

A friend of ours, who works with antique furniture, recommended using neutral kiwi paste shoe polish. I tried it and it does a very good job of taking off dirt and dust, and leaves a nice finish. You can actually see your reflection in the finish. A simple wipe down with a dry cloth takes care of any dust. 


Also used show polish years ago with nice results. - Dave

I have a Capehart with an intact finish that's slightly crazed but pretty faded. Would the finish benefit from an application of this mixture?

Yes Tony, equal parts of gum turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and white wine vinegar . The mixture must be constantly mixed to avoid separation. Pleasant odor and apply liberal amount knowing you can wipe off any excess within and hour. It drys overnite with a low luster. I found little reason to do more than polish after a 3 day dry.

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