Just got my first Scott.

[Keith Lowe]

All, I just picked up my first Scott, a 800B.  I'm pretty excited but I'm also a bit nervous after seeing the lengthy Riders manual.  According to the previous owner the Scott is functional but the tuner hasn't been re-capped (although the amp has).  It has a burned out tuning motor but it came with a parts tuner with a functional motor.  It will be awhile before I can start on this project since I've got two Maggies and a couple of TO's to finish first.  While I'm working on my other radios  I would like to start researching the tuner restoration.  I've restored other radios before but never a Scott.  I'd love some advice on how to restore the tuner.  For example can the metal bathtub caps be opened and re-stuffed?  Any tips on restoring the motorized tuning?  Anything Scott specific  that I need to watch out for?

Thanks in advance,

Keith

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Keith:

Welcome and congratulations!  Other than the motor tuning and associated idiosyncrasies, the Scott 800B tuner is reasonably conventional.  Ironically, as constructed and sold the sound quality from these receivers is not up to par with less costly competing receivers such as Magnavox and Zenith.  The sound quality problem is related to use of an unusual tone control circuit.  This problem (and hum) may be fixed using the modification identified in this album.. http://ehscott.ning.com/photo/albums/scott-800b-art-cabinet.  The bathtub capacitors are sealed and some are very good today while others must be replaced.  I recommend testing the capacitors for leakage out of circuit and continuing to use those that are good.  Those that are leaky can be opened, gutted, and new components installed inside before replacing the bathtub.  It is a lot of work but the result preserves the original circuit better than substituting the capacitors.  The leaky capacitors are all wax-paper therefore no worries about hot oil (most of the good capacitors are also wax-paper but made of better quality materials).  A burned out tuning motor is usually due to a stuck relay or push button.  When servicing the motor drive circuits, do not allow the tuning motor to run for more than a few seconds at a time.

Norman

[Keith Lowe]

Norman, thanks for the reply.  The tuner mods look fairly easy.   I haven't had time to study the chassis but at first glance it appears as if you need very long fingers to service the tuner.  Can the metal partitions be removed to make replacement and testing of components easier?

Thanks,

Keith

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Keith:

I believe the use of long fingers will be a lot less difficult than removing the interior shields.  Going from recollection, those interior shields are held by machine screws through the subchassis.  Removal of the interior shields cannot be accomplished without first removing the entire subchassis.

Norman

[Keith Lowe]

Norman, would you happen to have a photo showing your tuner modifications?  If I do this I want it to look halfway decent, I'm afraid my work might be too sloppy and I'd like to see your layout.  It will be a few months before I get around to doing this but I want to start planning.

Thanks,

Keith

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Keith:

Thanks for your inquiry.  My updated chassis is now fully installed in the original cabinet.  The layout of components and wiring is nearly identical to how it is depicted in the wiring diagram included next to the schematic in my 800B album.

Norman

[Ron Ramirez]

Hi Keith

Welcome! For me, it started with a McMurdo Silver Masterpiece VI in a Clifton cabinet. Then, I acquired an empty Scott Allwave 23 (7-knob) Tasman cabinet. From there it has spread to include two Scott WWII military sets (SLRM and RBO) and a 7-knob Allwave 23 tuner chassis which may - or may not - be a parts set, but it had all of its knobs.

After 22 years of specializing in Philco, I am enjoying this new diversion. I need to send my Scott serial numbers to Kent, too.