EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts

The Fine Things are Always Hand Made

S I am working on an "early" AW23 tuner, but someone has added a radio/phono switch like you see on the "late" chassis. But it is not some "hack" insertion - the wires and work are close to period for the set, I'd say there is a good probability it might have been a factory mod. And it is wired in <exactly> the same as the late mod, including the radio circuit cutoff and moving the input on the volume control - circuit matches exactly. The switch used is different than what is seen in the late chassis, if it was the same switch, I'd be convinced it was a factory mod...

So this leaves an extra control/hole in the front panel, and it won't go in any regular early 23 cabinet. Should I leave it as is or remove the circuit and return it to the early standard diagram. I'm going to work on recapping and such - I'd love opinions on what to do!!


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It is done so nice it would be a shame to remove it.  Maybe add a control to the other side, even if it does nothing.  If you have an early cabinet for the set, then just remove it. 

The early 5 knob set's phono input circuit is a pain in the ass if you ever want to use a more modern phono , CD player ,,, The problem the auxiliary device requires its own volume control, because the early AW-23 phono input circuit injects after the set volume control - thus radio blasts the aux device at full volume.

Provided the added control is correctly located to fit late AW-23 drilled cabinet, I suggest 1) leave the added  radio/phono circuit and 2) move the BFO button to to use the other hole. The challenge may be to find a switch with spring loaded shaft acting as a momentary switch, and drilling the chassis front apron for it. Got a junker late AW-23 parts set?

They didn't put this switch in the same place as a late 23 - so it will require a custom hole ruining any cabinet you put it in. And I <really> wanted to save an early 23 - they are actually rather scarce, by far the 23's are the later model. But I get the issue with the input circuit for it. I will continue to ponder but the switch as placed makes this chassis unusable in any Scott cabinet.

After reading your last reply, just remove it. 

For the reasons mentioned -  Agree - remove it.

Could you "remove" the control, but in reality just leave it connected and tucked up inside the chassis? Then it could be put back in place in the future, should you wish.

I'm thinking of a variation of that, Brad...maybe remove the switch, but tie off the circuit in radio position except for moving the phono input back to the 1AF cathode. I know this leaves me with the issue Dave noted (no volume control), but I seldom use the phono input myself...


An update: I did decide to remove the phono switch assembly and returned the set to the basic "early" AW23 wiring. I cleanly removed everything and will keep the parts and notes with the set if someone decides to return it to the chassis. 

This set did have an interesting issue: Occasionally when I would power it, the tuner would not get the filament voltage. Regulators lit up, but no 6.3VAC...I resoldered the pins on the set plug, still was failing. Wiggling the connector didn't always restore the filament, but most of the time it was I continued to do the alignment and testing. After having it on about 20 minutes, I noticed the entire length of the set cable was <very> warm to the touch, almost hot. Not just at one end, but all the length. This and the filament issue made me dig in the parts box and pull out another AW23 set cable. After replacing it - filament is working well and the cable remains cool. I hate to strip off a set cable but I am a bit curious to see what was wrong with it.


Kent, do you know anyone with a thermal camera? My employee has one built into his cell phone.

You could see where the problem is, without stripping the cable. 

Well, I've already replaced it but that is a good idea for finding a thermal issue...thanks!


Brad Winder said:

Kent, do you know anyone with a thermal camera? My employee has one built into his cell phone.

You could see where the problem is, without stripping the cable. 

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