New member - Scott 16

[Robert Feenstra]

 I just got into this fascinating hobby.  Just redid a couple of radios I grew up with - a Majestic 1941, and Philco Model14 - 1933, chassis only. Now working on a Philco 96, 1930.  I decided I needed a real radio and found a Scott 16 in an Acousticraft cabinet.  It's not in the greatest shape as there is a fair amount of chrome damage and it is missing a few parts.  The receiver, power supply and speaker are intact and fairly unmolested, but I need knobs, the large dial pointer and a replacement plastic dial cover.  Are there reproductions of these parts?  Or, in particular, does anyone have a pointer they might want to sell?  I guess I can live with non original knobs and I think I could vacuum form a new dial cover.  I couldn't find anything at Radio Daze.

This project will be on the back burner for awhile, especially as I research dealing with the rust areas in the chrome.  Not sure I want to completely strip the chassis and have it re-plated.  I guess it depends on what it's value might be completely restored.

I've done a little research on the 16 in the forum's archives.  I'm not really sure of what I've got. I don't know how popular the 16 was or how it performed compared to the other Scott models.  Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[David C. Poland]

Cool. And it fit back in the mounting bracket.

[Robert Feenstra]

The biggest problem I had on this transformer was keeping the thickness of the core slim enough to fit back in the E sections.  They, evidently, could wind them tighter than I can.  I had to do a little squeezing to get the laminations back in.  Perhaps my paper between the layers is thicker.  I didn't measure the thickness, I just used the same thing I always use.

I believe these originally had a cover over the terminal strip.  You wouldn't happen to have one of those would you? 

[David C. Poland]

Sorry no. Used that cover on another Scott

[Robert Feenstra]

I got the chassis back from the chrome shop.  Real purdy!

Now to start the reconstruction.  It's going to be a challenge to set all of the rivets without scratching the chrome!  I'll probably tape it all up except where the rivets go. 

[Kent King]

I'm curious, where did you get it done and what was the cost? It looks great!

Kent

[Robert Feenstra]

There is a small shop in Muskegon, MI, about 25 miles from me, that specializes in small pieces for auto, boats, etc.  Not cheap!  These 2 pieces cost me $375.  The power supply/amp chassis cost me more as there was a lot of small pieces.  I'll have far more into all of this than I'll ever be able to get out of the radio.  but then, it won't be for sale - unless I find a Philly!

Finding a small chrome shop is getting more difficult these days as the toxic waste disposal is a killer. This shop can handle smaller pieces but has to send out larger pieces, such as bumpers.  They strip, copper plate, sand, nickle plate, then chrome plate and polish.  Sometimes the inside of a piece needs a bit of touch-up.  For example, the inside of the tuner cover had a bit of crud in it that I had to clean and use paint to protect.  Don't know if that is typical or just lack of attention to parts that they figure are not seen.  On small pieces like the transformer covers, they have to solder a wire to the inside for the plating process.  That area needs to be sanded off and touched up with paint to protect. 

https://www.kropromi.com

[Russ Webb]

That is a good price. Did you get the cans chromed?

[Robert Feenstra]

Remember, that was just for the tuner chassis, not the amp/ps.  I did not get the cans chromed since they are out of aluminum.  This shop cannot do aluminum.  They said that the cans would be destroyed.  Not sure what I'm going to do with those.  They may just have to stay as is unless I can find a shop that can guarantee that they can do them without damage.

[Russ Webb]

You can probably get away with having them polished - then wax them. I am surprised that the shop did not offer to do this.

[Robert Feenstra]

They would probably do that but, after a bit of research, I decided to not let them do anything to them.  I'll polish them.  the problem is that there are bubbles in the chrome where it has separated from the aluminum.  You can't polish that out.  You had some success with re-chroming these, even though you said they destroyed a couple of them.  What did they do to be successful?  do you know of a shop that can safely handle these thin aluminum cans?  Stripping the chrome that is on them is probably the "dangerous" part.

[Russ Webb]

I wish that I had kept the 2 that were destroyed for further analysis. They looked like corroded zinc but could have been aluminum too. The plater did not know what they were made of.

[David C. Poland]

FYI. - Two different versions of tube shields are seen on the Scott 16.

Aluminum which will polish up pretty well with Mothers Mag Polish.

The other version are heftier and are chrome plated, evidently what you have..

I have seen both type. They are distinctively different appearance.