The Fine Things are Always Hand Made
Philly panel drilling
Help wanted,
Does anyone have a drilling / hole drawing for a seven knob philharmonic, I can work out the control shaft and dial dimensions, it's the position of the two eye tubes that is causing me a problem.
many thanks in advance
Mike
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Scott Seickel on
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I can take some measurements. You are looking for the relationship of the eye holes in respect to all the other holes?
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Permalink Reply by David C. Poland on
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from a Scott Philharmonic panel drilling layout drawing (source forgotten):
The eye holes are 5/8" radius - so a 1 1/4 (or even 1 1/8 th " spade bit is suitable.
Center points of eye holes are 8 inches apart and 9 inches above the bottom edge of the receiver chassis.
You did not ask, but the Philharmonic dial hole is 3 15/16 " radius - the bezel lip is very narrow so this is an exacting cut to attain 7 7/8ths inch diameter circle.
Assuming a wood panel thickness of 3/8" and to accommodate the Scott dial bezel retainer spring, the hole is back cut (counterbore) at a radius of 4 5/16" - but you can probably free hand the back cut with a plunge router set for 1/8th inch depth to mill away about about a 3/8" wide step on the back side of the panel dial opening. Or a Rabbeting Bit with a bearing set would be precise.
Control shaft holes are 7/16". Except the tuning shaft is 25/32 " but is less fussy due to the size of the larger tuning knob.
Suggest you cut and drill a test panel for a test fit, and fine tune that panel. When the test panel is "right", then use it as a pattern and cut your actual panels with a router using a flush trim bit.
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EH%20Scott%20Philharmonic%20Panel%20Layout.pdf
Here is a CAD drawing of the front panel layout. If you have access to a cnc router, I can supply the cad file. I happened to have the front panel off of a Tasman Philharmonic that I recently acquired, so it was easy enough to measure the holes. Done with dial calipers so this is actual measured values, though when originally made it probably used standard sizes for measurements. The wood probably has moved over the years, though this panel fits my Philharmonic perfectly.
Kent, can you upload this to the files section so others can find it in the future?
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Permalink Reply by mike hadley on
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Scott
Thanks for this, exactly what is wanted
Mike
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Very slightly revised layout below. I made the dial hole 7-7/8", even though mine is 7-15/16". My bezel fits fine, but the slightly smaller hole is ok also. Better to be slightly smaller. I also lowered the eyes by 1/16" to correct file above.
Printed full scale, this matches up perfectly on my Philharmonic front panel.
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Scott:
you have the center shaft, the one under the tuning control marked as "eliminate for 9 knob sets, my philharmonic has the scratch suppressor pull switch located here, the outer top two switches are not fitted,
Mike
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The drawing is correct.
You have a 7 knob set- it is a dial pointer, correct? We don't count the push/pull switch as a knob, otherwise it would be an 8 knob set. :-)
On the 9 knob sets, there is nothing where your scratch suppressor switch is, but there are 2 more outer holes.
Maybe my wording could be better on the drawing for people not familiar with all the Philharmonics.
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Aha
that does explain the difference, still really useful drawing just the same, common sense says where to drill holes.
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Permalink Reply by Kent King on
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Scott -
I added the revised file to the Philharmonic sets folder, thanks for creating that. I think Scott had a diagram too, but I've got to dig through my odd materials to see if i can find it.
Kent
Scott Seickel said:Very slightly revised layout below. I made the dial hole 7-7/8", even though mine is 7-15/16". My bezel fits fine, but the slightly smaller hole is ok also. Better to be slightly smaller. I also lowered the eyes by 1/16" to correct file above.
Printed full scale, this matches up perfectly on my Philharmonic front panel.
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