EH Scott Radio Enthusiasts

The Fine Things are Always Hand Made

All, does anyone happen to have a high quality scan of the SAMS photofact covering the 800B?  I'm getting ready to attack mine and it seems like a photofact would come in handy.  I'd also like to hear what components likely needs to be replaced.  I'm planning on replacing all the electrolytic caps and normally I'd swap all the paper caps but these are all difficult to get to.  It looks like I'd have to disconnect them for testing so at that point I might as well re-stuff all the bathtubs.  If the paper caps are  likely to be good I'll just swap the electrolytics.  I'm still a month or two away from starting on this project but I'd like to hear from folks that have restored a 800B  so I can begin planning.  What are the common problems that need to addressed?  Once it's up and running I'll do the tone modifications.  I haven't powered it up yet but I was told it was functional minus the motorized tuning.  Also, is it safe to wax the chrome chassis or will it burn off when things get warm?

Thanks,

Keith

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Riders Vol 15  in the Scott section - page 30 to page 90  covers much of the information you need.  Take some time to get acquainted with the documentation before you get too far along in recapping.

 I have restored one of these. You definitely need the documentation to restore this complex radio, as well as how to operate it  because in order to switch between AM and FM, some controls must be in certain positions. Take your time. The one I restored sounded impressive in the cabinet when I finished the restoration.

Also,  watch for the large blue cover compendium that includes all information from the owner's manual, factory tech information including parts list, voltage and resistance readings and alignment instructions, and well as extensive tech info on the Thorens 78 changer model Concert CD-40. This book is well over 100 pages.

The bath tub caps have a reputation of being all bad. You might as well replace all caps - they are already over 65 years old and should be regarded as unreliable.. There were some changes effective with serial number 2000.  Be aware that the AC line runs through the speaker plug in route to the receiver and back to  the on/off relay relay located in the power supply. Start with a check of all the transformers and relays lest you have other challenges besides the bad motor.   

I like Turtle Wax's Chrome polish as a cleaner deal with any dirt and corrosion . Then I suppose waxing the chrome with an auto wax product would be OK. 

-Dave Poland

Thanks Dave, Did you re-stuff the bathtubs?  I've done lots of radios but none this complex.  I've never seen a Riders that was more than a few pages and this one has 60!  I'm thinking SAMS would fill in any gaps that Riders left out.  Good thing I've got a couple of months before I begin because  it will take me at least a couple of months to do my homework.

Keith

Keith,     I did not re stuff bath tub caps as that 800B belongs to distant member of wife's family (but I may re stuff them  for my own 800B when I get to it).  I  disconnected the positive end and  bridged in the new caps, sometimes adding terminal strips to support the new caps..  

You say it plays despite the faulty motor drive. You may need to disconnect the motor until you get the radio playing, and then check out the motor.    Each station preset button is hard wired for either AM or FM (and can be rewired for either AM or FM  by changing a solder connection).  Changing to  FM mode or AM mode is accomplished by selecting an FM preset or an AM preset button to activate a relay that actually makes the change.  Pressing any preset is also supposed to activate the motor drive to seek that station. Maybe the motor is bad, or needs lube and maintenance, or the transformer that powers it is burned out. Or maybe the big round mechanism on the back is too dirty to pass current to the motor.  Or the motor is stuck and stressing the transformer and hasn't burned out  yet..  I have been told the motor is under powered and lubrication of the motor and of the entire tuning mechanism is important to avoid  motor damage.  

Most of the FM circuit is located on the Power supply chassis along with the audio amp circuit.  Again, the Selectivity and AM band switch must be in certain positions  for the AM/FM relay to activate - see the set instructions.  You need the correct Scott field coil speaker attached in order for the 800B radio to power up, Otherwise you need to rig a temporary jumper to allow house current to get through to the on/off relay. Scott eventually (sometime before Ser# 5769)  went to a permanent magnet speaker that had a 675 ohm power resistor by the magnet in lieu of the field coil. The bell cover over the magnet is metal  for the field coil version, and plastic for the power resistor version. Both versions are coax Jensens, and are the same color blue. The tweeter is activated in FM mode and switched out on radio and short wave mode.   As you can imagine, the diagrams are bit daunting.  

Have fun   .....   -Dave

Dave, You're scaring me.  I'm not going to touch this thing until I'm convinced I know how it operates.

Thanks,

Keith

Once again, I'll remind everyone that there is a lot of data on most sets at this site:

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B0K3TBSz_27rNzRiZDFlM2ItN2EyMC00Y...

In this case, go to "Set Folders" and find the 800B materials.....it should help.

I should have remembered the new set folders resource. The 800B set folders looks complete.

Keith,       My long narrative was intended to orientate you, not worry you.  Start with the operating instructions as you have the radio in front of you on your work table to get oriented.   It helps to color code some of the circuits in the diagrams: in particular, the AC power feed to the on/off relay, high voltage B+ wires, the medium voltage B+ circuits.  Working through the 800B is great training to enable you to tackle about any Scott you will ever encounter. And the 800B is the considered the last of the classic Scotts because E H was still in charge during its design.  It has modern FM, phono input and the TV input is a good "Aux in" for a CD player or Ipod with very good powerful audio to enjoy when you are done.

- Dave

Hi Keith
I have the original factory manual
Along with some service notes
IF you like I can email them to you
Let me know
Ralph Kearton

Ralph, I'd love to get some high quality scans of the schematic so I can blow  it up and printed poster size.  The portions of the manual that contain photographs may reproduce  better if photographed rather than scanned.  At the  moment I've  got  a bunch of  radios in my restoration cue that need to  be  finished before I begin this  project so I won't need them for at least a  month, maybe  longer. I'll write back when I'm a bit closer.  Have you recapped yours?

Thanks,

Keith

keithslowe@gmail.com

Ralph Kearton said:

Hi Keith
I have the original factory manual
Along with some service notes
IF you like I can email them to you
Let me know
Ralph Kearton
Hi Keith
I have done the electros only
I put new ones in and left the old ones in place
Its running really well so I am a bit scared to do more until a full upgrade next winter
I have only the chassis and the speaker as the shipping to new Zealand was too much
My main jobs are to mount up everything investigate more recapping and repair transit damage
It took a hit and I need one set of push buttons and a new dial glass
I see that radio daze are doing the glass but if any body reading this can help me out with a push button assembly I would be most gratefull.
Don't know how the diagrams I have would scale up .
They look quite good through.
As you will be doing yours before mine would be most intereseted to hear how you get on .
I will email the stuff I have to you now
Regards
Ralph
Regards
Ralph

Keith Lowe said:

Ralph, I'd love to get some high quality scans of the schematic so I can blow  it up and printed poster size.  The portions of the manual that contain photographs may reproduce  better if photographed rather than scanned.  At the  moment I've  got  a bunch of  radios in my restoration cue that need to  be  finished before I begin this  project so I won't need them for at least a  month, maybe  longer. I'll write back when I'm a bit closer.  Have you recapped yours?

Thanks,

Keith

keithslowe@gmail.com

Ralph Kearton said:

Hi Keith
I have the original factory manual
Along with some service notes
IF you like I can email them to you
Let me know
Ralph Kearton

Ralph:

I have a push button assembly available.  Let me know which version (early or late) and which side you are seeking along with a shipping address and I will provide a quote for the assembly including shipping.  Also please let me know how many push-buttons you will require for replacement of the ones on the damaged assembly.

Norman

Hi Norman

Many thanks

It took a wack in transit

i have 3 out on the top of the left hand side

At work now will check back with the serial number to nite

Its built 5/19/47 and the serial number is in the middle 2000s from memory .

Would love to check out your collection when i am next in the golden state

thanks again

Ralph

Norman S Braithwaite said:

Ralph:

I have a push button assembly available.  Let me know which version (early or late) and which side you are seeking along with a shipping address and I will provide a quote for the assembly including shipping.  Also please let me know how many push-buttons you will require for replacement of the ones on the damaged assembly.

Norman

Hi Norman
Had a look and I am way off on the serial number.
Its17666
The build date is right I think .
It is stamped on the tuning assembly cover.
The left hand as you look at it push button assembly has had damage to the brown insulating vertical assembly
This is the one that mounts the contacts for the sliding biscuits
Looks to me as a old telephone switching engineer as its a one piece assembly but I may be wrong
Also would like a new cover for T3 on the receiver and T7 cover on the output and power supply chassis
I was going to get them repaired here in new Zealand but if you have some I would be interested in buying them
My shipping address is
Ralph Kearton
15 Tennyson avenue
Takapuna
North shore
Auckland
0622
New Zealand
I think the best way is to pay into your bank account so if you could give me the details along with the swift code.
If that will not work I can do pay pal
Also I can get my old mate just up the road from you Battleground WA to pay you and I will fix him up
Many thanks Norman for all your help
I understand that this set is one of 2 of this model in new Zealand so it's a bit special
Regards
Ralph Kearton

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