SCOTT NAPIER ALLWAVE 12

[Lance Hughes]

Good morning everyone,

           This is my first time posting so please forgive me if I mess something up. I have recently purchased the radio stated in the subject line above and please see the attached pictures. Single tuner, Serial M-99, single speaker, and AVC with the Wunderlich tube. Before powering up the radio on a dim bulb tester, I notice the 80 rectifier tube was in one of the 45s' socket and the 45 was in the 80 socket. I decided I better start checking underneath the power supply before applying power. I noticed filter caps have been changed out in the past and some soldering on wires in different locations. I pulled the tubes out in the power supply and began tracing wiring and taking resistance measurements. The biggest GOTCHA so far is what I understand to be the audio interstage transformer. Please correct me if this is not the correct terminology. My Fluke meter shows an open circuit on all connections. I have never seen a transformer open like this. Anyway, I need a replacement. Performing research by looking at the grid and plate characteristics of the 45 and 56 tubes. I believe this transformer from Antique Electronic Supply could possibly work.

 https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/transformer-audio-interstage-...

P-T156

Any advice will be greatly appreciated letting me know if this part would work or I'm totally out in left field. I'm in and out of the house today so it may take time for me to respond. 

Thanks!

[Scott Seickel]

It depends on the cabinet.  I can say that it is attached to the cabinet on the Tasman

David C. Poland said:

Why do you need to remove the speaker cloth? It is usually attached to the speaker baffle board, not to the cabinet.

[Troy Taylor]

I should also mention that it does not require much moisture to help loosen the glue while ironing.  Just dip your finger in a bowl of water and trace along where you want to soften the glue before ironing.  If the water steams away before the glue is soft, repeat using your finger to apply more water and continue ironing.  Gentle persistence will be key.

Troy

Edmonds, WA

[Lance Hughes]

Good morning everyone,

           David, as Scott stated and from what I can tell, the kerf groove was cut directly into the front part of the wooden cabinet. Picture of inside cabinet attached to this thread. Noel and I spent a good bit of time and will spend more time on possibly restoring the cabinet without removing the grill cloth but at this time it does not look possible. I like the idea of the screen door spline and will consider that during the installation of the grille cloth. Troy, thank you for the suggestion with adding the water. I am taking everyone's suggestions, building a Word document to use while removing and installing the grill cloth. I hope to visit Noel's shop next weekend and start this process.

[David C. Poland]

Interesting - my Napier cabinet front is 3/8 " stock and the speaker baffle is about 1 inch made up of wide boards glued up. Mounting screws angle into the cabinet sides.  It was cut for an AW-12, but finished for an AW-15 with the side holes for the SW antenna tuner are plugged and the stair step control panel was obviously factory cut for the AW-15. Guessing, your cabinet is earlier production with front of thicker stock to accommodate the saw kerfs for mounting speaker cloth. Mine is the same dark walnut veneer with blond chevron.

On reinstallation, consider using a table saw to cut new kerfs in the speaker baffle board instead.  Take some care in planning dimensions. Start with the speaker baffle screwed in place, and mark the actual openings onto baffle board so as to plan saw kerfs out of sight. Be easier to install the cloth on the speaker baffle board than inside the cabinet.

[Lance Hughes]

[Lance Hughes]

Good evening David,

 

            I'm sorry. I'm attempting to wrap my head around this speaker baffle. You stated your baffle is about 1 inch made up of wide boards glued up. This sounds like the board in which my speaker is attached. Please see the attached pictures. The crazy thing is, Noel and I looked for screw holes in the cabinet of where the board could be attached and nothing. We could not find any type of screw holes for the amplifier as well. Of course there are not mounting brackets on the amplifier. Instead of cutting new kerf grooves in the baffle, could I not just clean out the existing grooves on the cabinet? I understand it will be easier on the baffle. Just curious. Thanks.

[David C. Poland]

The Tauscher board should be installed BETWEEN the speaker and the baffle board, not the opposite side of the baffle board. Scott supplied longer 1 3/4 inch round head wood screws. 

*

Why refinish the whole cabinet? Looks pretty good overall. Hard to get the color right on a total refinish.

Just replace the torn veneer on the front bottom, just at the corner. Damage is probably from scooting it on carpet. 

On mine, I removed the bottom 7 inches high veneer to only the first step up. Replaced with Walnut straight grain veneer stained as needed to match cabinet color. I like Titebond 1 or 2 glue and the hot iron method. Apply a thin coat to the cabinet and to the back of the new veneer. Let dry about 45 minutes. Then iron it on. Keep a piece of old cotton sheet or T shirt cotton between the iron and the veneer. Iron set to medium. Butt the new veneer to the edge of the old veneer, and work toward the cabinet corner. For good measure while still warm, press the new veneer down with a veneer roller or veneer hammer. Or use a piece of wood after sanding an edge smooth so you don't leave scratches, passing it with the grain over the new veneer to force out any bubbles and assure good contact. Practice with some scrap veneer on scrap of wood to get the feel of this method.

ARF has a couple threads on the hot iron glue method, especially the work of Fred Taylor.

*

looks like the rest of your cabinet would respond to the GO-JO cleaner method - the GO-JO without pumice.

I use a 1/2 piece of fine 0000 steel wool as an applicator. Apply a dab and lightly spread it around a modest section of the cabinet, and wipe is away with a paper towel. Repeat. Removes dirt, wax, smoke and grease residue. Buff with a piece of old bath towel. Buff again the next day. Seems to cover most scratches and produces a nice sheen.

[Lance Hughes]

Thank you David. Great information sir. Is your amplifier somehow bolted to the cabinet?

[David C. Poland]

I reviewed your earlier comments on the thread.

My Napier had a hard life, having been lacquered white over the original finish, then stripped and finally poorly varnished leaving   number of runs. But the color was good and only white lacquer still in evidence was overspray behind legs and behind the speaker grill. I used a scrapper (Woodcraft Store) to plain the runs smooth. light sanding. Then several thin coats of Shellac. Let dry a week then rubbed out the finish with rubbing compound, then waxed it.

I have used GO-JO on a number of Scott cabinets with good success. Sometimes used dark Old English for scratches or traces of hard to remove rubbing compound.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

The Scott-Tausher sound board was not even invented during the entire run of Napier Consolette cabinets.  Furthermore, although it did defeat the beam effect of a curvalinear cone, it also defeated sound quality.  Remove it and hang it on the wall.

Norman 

[Lance Hughes]

Beautiful radio David!!!! Thanks Norm for the information on the sound board. I wonder when or why it was attached to the baffle. Who knows right?? I will take your advice and hang it on the wall. Thanks guys.

[David C. Poland]

Agree - the Tauscher sound board is best a display curiosity and not used over the speaker.

Look closely at your speaker baffle - it is two or three boards (Spruce?) glued up. Not plywood.

Those 4 large round Forstner bit holes near the corners are for attaching the speaker board to the cabinet.

Look closely. There is a hole drilled in the side of each Forstner bit hole.

Wood screws (1" or 1 1/4" unsure of length)  fit those holes in side of each forester bit hole. The screws are driven sideways into the cabinet sides. Today, we might use pocket screw technology.

My 3 tube AW-15 amp is like your AW-12 amp - just sits with no flange to secure it. There is a Scott photo showing the amp setting beside or on top of the cabinet for conveniently using earphones. That earphone jack is two position. Inserted partway, both the speaker and earphone function. Fully inserted, the speaker goes quiet and the earphone alone functions.

FYI - Your AW-12 and my AW-15 amps are different and not interchangeable. Yours uses an 80 and two 45's. My AW-15 uses a 5Z3 and pair of 2A3's. And the output transformers in the speaker pedestal are different, as are the speakers and field coils. There are two field coils in both auditorium pedestal speakers (by Jensen) built specifically to meet Scott specs.