Modified Allwave 23 questions

[Troy Taylor]

Hello-

I just posted some questions about the Allwave 12 I bought last weekend and wanted to ask some questions about a second Scott radio I was offered, but turned down because I have some reservations about its degree of authenticity (it has obviously been modified), and whether or not it would be possible to restore it to it's original configuration.

The second radio is an Allwave 23 and I was all set to purchase it too, but then I took a look at the back of the cabinet and noticed the cover panel was attached with phillips-head sheet-rock screws.  I removed the screws and saw a large mystery box of components and modern wiring, and a terminal strip of wires going everywhere stuck in the bottom of the cabinet.  Some of the wires lead to a large MAGNAVOX speaker that had been shoved in there.  Obviously someone has removed the correct speaker and replaced it with this albatross substitute, and then created some sort of Frankenstein contraption to work around the electrical differences between the factory speaker and this substitute.  I do not have any pictures of this conglomeration, but it is definitely not original factory work, or the work of someone that shares my belief of the necessity of maintaining originality when working on vintage items.

Although it might be functional, or made to be functional, as-is, I am only willing to buy this radio if I discover it is possible to 'unmolest' it and return it to the correct configuration and components it would have had when built.

At the very least it will need a replacement speaker of whatever variety is correct for this radio.  (However, I do not know what kind of speaker this would be.)  Probably everyone wants these speakers for something, so I have little confidence in finding one, but if it is possible to do so, I will reconsider purchasing this radio if I can be sure it is restorable.  I would like to restore this radio correctly, but I have little interest in one that has been butchered in this manner if proper restoration is not possible.

Thank you and best regards-

Troy Taylor

[David C. Poland]

Nice work. Nice to have the wood shop tools.

Do test fit the speaker board in the cabinet.

Concern is the bottom kerf may be visible from the cabinet front view. If so, just wrap the cloth under the bottom edge.

AS for the old foam weather stripping, maybe a chisel as a scraper and then sandpaper? then a wash coat of shellac on the wood surface?

It is overcoming such challenges that keeps us young.

[Troy Taylor]

Hello-

Last night I got the reproduction cloth installed in the new baffle board using the window screen spline.   Came out looking better than the shabby/stained/threadbare original cloth.  I saved the original, but went ahead and used the new.  The new board is screwed into the cabinet and the tweeters and pedestal speaker are mounted.  I put the two chassis back in and listened to everything in the cabinet for the first time.  Sounds really great in my opinion!  Please note that the camera flash makes the shine and color of the new board look more vivid than it really is.  Also, I still need to replace the cloth in the side panel on the right in the picture.  It has gaping holes in it.

The baffle board is secured using the same mounting holes as the original; I transferred them from the existing reproduction board.  And before I cut the saw kerfs for the cloth I had pencil traced the outline of the cabinet opening on the front, so they are not visible from the front.

I am wondering if there should be some sort of diffuser in the dial assembly.  I put a frosted lens from Radio Daze in the escutcheon, but with the lamp lit it is possible to see right through everything.  The dial shows a lot of shadows and the bulb itself is clearly visible behind the numbers, which are a little indistinct due to the outline of everything else being so obvious.  The tuning meter needle is very hard to see at all.  If this is actually how the dial is supposed to look, I have to say that it is the least impressive feature of the whole radio.

Next up is to figure out how to restore the Volume Range Expander.  Thus far I have not been able to take it apart.

Thank you and best regards-

Troy

[Thomas Day]

Troy:

Looking very good.  I am attaching a photo of the dial on my Allwave 23.

[Thomas Day]

The dial pointer on mine is above its proper location I think. You can see the shadow of the tuning meter on the top right  of the photo.  I also have a new dial scale that I have yet to install. 

I have recaped the tuner chassis and had a new power transformer made.  When I have the time and energy, I will take everything to the bench and do a complete alignment, as I ams sure the IF is off, and I think it could have a little better sensitivity. Also, I have a complete replacement set of tubes for it.  

As for the expander, Looking at the diagrams on this site, it is a pretty tight assembly. A couple of years ago I got all the parts and tubes to reproduce one.  All still in packaging on the shelf.  . 

[mike hadley]

Troy;

Have you got the bulb in the right orientation, ideally you should have a point light source, the illumination works better with the filament end on, rather than parallel to the dial,

Mike

[David C. Poland]

The dial insert should have an overall frosted appearance, including the white (Broadcast band). Frosted so as the provide a 4 color translucent vertical strips that reveal definite shadow of the frequency numbers, the horizontal stationary line and the shadow of the meter pointer in the upper 25% or so of the dial insert. Original 80 year old dial inserts show some fading unless the cabinet had doors. The broadcast band is not clear, but whitish..

The now defunct E H Scott Historical Society had some replacement dial inserts made in the mid 1990's with the broadcast (left) band done in translucent white. 

The dial light filament should not be prominent, rather a ball of brightness is visible  behind the dial insert depending on your viewing angle.  Thomas's image above is about right.

Also, maybe try a dimmer dial lamp. My 7 knob AW-23 has a blue bead lamp which is  #46 (.25 amp .8 candle power). but you could try the dimmer brown bead #40 (.15 amp .5 candle power). Both are T 3 1/4 inch screw base 6 .3 volt dial lamps. Modern lamps may not have color beads, but the lamp number is stamped on the screw base

[Troy Taylor]

Hello-

I have been looking at the schematic and decided to put the weakest-testing (but still good) #76 tube in the beat-frequency oscillator socket.  Unless I am misreading things, that tube is not doing anything at all unless the button is pressed to use it.  As I do not scan the shortwave bands using this feature, I do not care if it has a strong tube. 

My question though concerns the #76 tube in the socket for the tuning meter.  As my meter is difficult to read at best, I do not use it to tune; I accomplish that aurally and this works fine for me.  Is there any negative effect on the receiver performance, presumably other than the tuning meter itself, to put the second-weakest tube in that socket? 

I know Scott recommended really strong tubes everywhere, but as far as I can tell these two sockets will not cause much degradation of performance to 'use up' the last of the life remaining in those two tubes.  If I am mistaken, please let me know.

Thank you and best regards-

Troy

[Thomas Day]

Troy. As long aa the tube functions in those locations, it will be fine. The tuning meter should be visible thru the dial cover. There is an adjustment control to set the zero position of the pointer. The tune meter works off the agc circuit. I posted a pix of my dial. Thom.

[David C. Poland]

The 76 tube is not an expensive tube new.

Bob Dobush's site new/used $8/$4. http://www.findatube.com.  Usually less at radio tailgate meets.

[Troy Taylor]

Hello-

So I took another look at the dial/tuning meter in my set because I still think it strange that I can see right through everything.  The meter has two empty holes in the sides and two rivets on the bottom edge that are not actually fastening anything to the frame.  This has me thinking there is a diffuser or some other piece missing from my meter, as there would be no reason to install rivets or make those holes.  Pictures show what is in there now.  Also, since the meter is supposed to be moving to the right when a station is tuned in, is it correct for the meter to be at the far right when not powered?

If this meter is missing any part(s), a picture of a complete one would be much appreciated so I can figure out how to make whatever is needed to make it complete.

Thank you and best regards-

Troy

[Norman S Braithwaite]

The meter looks complete but the last 3/16 inch of the needle should be bent down at a 45-degree angle so as to project a shadow on the screen.  Speaking of screen, it sounds like the one for your set is missing.  You should not be able to see the dial or meter, only their shadow on a frosted translucent screen (four color) attached to the back of the tuning escutcheon.

Norman 

[Troy Taylor]

Hello Norman-
I bought a frosted four color screen from Radio Daze for mine and have that installed too. Mine was missing from the escutcheon when I bought the set, but I later found it wedged down inside the cabinet. However it was damaged and badly faded, so I have kept the reproduction one in there for use. Even being frosted though, with the dial lamp glowing it is possible to see right through.
Good to know that the needle should be bent though; I will have to remedy that. It makes sense, and explains why the needle is essentially invisible; there is nothing to cast a shadow.
What are the rivets at the bottom of the meter housing for? If nothing is missing it seems strange that they would have any reason to install those rivets that have no apparent function.
Thank you and best regards-
Troy