Napier cabinet veneer

[Bob Cofer]

I just scored a Napier cabinet on eBay and will be picking it up on Friday. The veneer is completely missing from the front, base apron. Does anyone have clear pictures of a Napier base. In the not so clear pictures I have been able to find, it seems to have a striped effect. It this just carefully chosen walnut strips? Or is it some other type of wood?

[Kent King]

I'll take some pics of mine - I have the same set as the one on ebay, an Allwave Deluxe. Happy to help you, and that is a great Scott to own!

Kent

[Bob Cofer]

Thanks so much!

[Scott Seickel]

Ahh, you were the lucky winner.  That is the early version.

I don't know who this set belongs to, I just have it in my folder.  I think it is in the archives here. 

[Bob Cofer]

Thank you. It is indeed in the archive. What I need is a clear, closeup of the bottom apron, so I can see how the striping effect is achieved.

[David C. Poland]

Scott - that photo of an AW-15 and Napier is mine. Cabinet work included some of the front base veneer.

Bob -  the bottom front is dark Walnut veneer, applied with vertical grain. See attached photo of front corner. The front base veneer is not heavily striped like the front herring bone veneers.

Damage likely from scooting the cabinet on carpet, which catches slightly loose veneer.

FYI - Scott documentation says the original finish was 4 coats of shellac rubbed out, let dry 3-4 days, then 3 coats of lacquer rubbed out and polished.

The ripped side veneer will be more of a challenge. as you fit in new veneer, avoid right angle cuts. Better to have angled cuts where you meet the original veneer. New veneer is apt to be thinner than the original veneer. You can try adhesive backed walnut veneer which may be a bit thicker. But rather than adhesive backed, I like the method of ironing on the veneer (modest coat of Titebond 2 both surfaces, let dry 40 minutes and use a hot iron to melt the glue, press briefly and done).

For loose veneer, I use Franklin brand liquid Hide glue which is compatible with the original glues of the 1930's  Stain and apply a couple coats of shellac to get the color right before applying the new veneer to the cabinet. Then add finish.

Be sure you reinforce the rear legs.  

[Scott Seickel]

Nice set David.  I knew it was an AW15. 

Was the set completely refinished?

I don't see the point of putting on 4 coats of shellac.  Why not just lacquer?  It has superior properties to shellac. 

[Kent King]

Here are some pics of my cabinet, this is original, and I used a flash as it was dark near the floor.

Kent

Bob Cofer said:

Thanks so much!

[Scott Seickel]

Are you going to tease us with just pictures of the legs Kent, LOL. 

[Bob Cofer]

Thanks Kent. That’s exactly what I needed. A member from another group suggested it was Australian Queensland walnut. It would seem he is correct. The grain pattern on your radio matches the veneer I searched as Australian.

[Kent King]

Sorry, here is a shot of the whole set:

Scott Seickel said:

Are you going to tease us with just pictures of the legs Kent, LOL. 

[Bob Cofer]

That’s really beautiful!

[Scott Seickel]

Very nice Kent.