Rare Masterpiece ?

[Dave]

Aquired this set with what appears to be factory hanging brackets. He front dash appears precision made as well, sadly all that remains. Rare as the Masterpiece is, this qualifies as unique.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Likely from a Linden cabinet.

[David C. Poland]

Yes - is a Scott Masterpiece -round black dial, 6 controls plus tuning knobs, separate 3 tube power supply with pair of 6V6 output tubes.

The correct speaker has two field coils, the output transformer and the speaker cable has an 8 pin octal plug.

[Kent King]

I agree with Norman, about the right size for the Linden panel (I have a Linden). Scott had several cabinets where the chassis faces upward and requires the bracing and such that you have there. Great find, please let me know the serial number on it!

Kent

[David C. Poland]

Re: the knobs. The two pinch shape knobs go on the top left and right control shafts. If one of the round "s" knobs is shorter, it belongs on the tuning control shaft.

To clean and polish the chrome, I like Turtle liquid chrome polish. 

You are fortunate to have the braces to support  the receiver in a Scott radio/phono credenza cabinet. The two studs below the dial lamps help position the chassis against the wood panel. The other front braces help support and position the receiver too. The rear braces support the chassis weight and push the receiver tight against the front of the cabinet. If you locate a credenza cabinet, you will need these braces.

[Scott Seickel]

I always wash with soap and water first, with as little rubbing action as possible because the chrome will scratch from abrasive particles in the dirt. 

David C. Poland said:

To clean and polish the chrome, I like Turtle liquid chrome polish. 

[David C. Poland]

I am reluctant to use soap and water, unless confronted with a excessive dirt.

For the Initial cleaning,  usually I first brush the chassis all over with a half inch artists brush with vacuum wand  in hand to suck away dust and any debris as I brush. For the tight places between tube shields and coil covers I use a smaller artists brush. I might use a damp cloth on the tops of tube shields and coil cans. Pull off tube shield tops and pull the tubes, glance into each shield base before inserting the vacuum cleaner wand and use the smaller artist brush to loosen dust and dirt.

For liquid polish application, I prefer old bath or hand towel, cut into about 4 inch squares folded into a pad. Refold frequently to avoid grit and grime scratching the chrome. For rougher chrome, change pads more often,. Apply the polish liberally to the cloth, enough so the cloth wets the chrome and lightly rub to loosen dirt before rubbing harder. I will use a half dozen cloth pads with decent chrome, more is there is bubbling and flaking chrome.

When performing a restoration, I first remove shields, coil cans, tuning condenser covers, etc. This also reduces the weight of the heavy Scott chassis. During restoration, I further detail the the chrome. 

During restoration be very careful to account for nuts and washers and guard against loose solder falling into the wiring. Before powering up, pick up and shake the chassis to dislodge loose metal .. then do a visual inspection for blobs of solder, lest any fall and cause a short.

Warning - do not use water to clean the vacuum tubes, as water is likely to wash away tube numbering. To clean the tubes, I use fine steel wool to remove baked on dirt, dust and grime. Then vacuum the tube to remove steel wool particles and then wipe with a dry cloth. Inspect to find loose tube bases - a bit of Super Glue can usually affix the tube glass to the base. Inspect for corroded tube base pins before using a tube testor - usually fine emery cloth or fine sand paper will clean off any corrosion. 

[Scott Seickel]

Well, there are plenty of ways to skin a cat.  I have used soap and water on all parts that are removable.  Flush with plenty of water to get grit off.  The chrome scratches very easily. 

A damp soapy rag is excellent first step to remove all heavy grime on the main chassis that can't be run under water.  This, of course, is after vacuuming or using compressed air to remove all loose debris- but there usually is not too much of that. 

The chassis is then finally cleaned with Windex, then receives several coats of car wax along with all loose chrome parts.  

All tube sockets are taped before cleaning as you don't want any debris going into them. 

This produces a chassis that is as clean as you can get it, and the wax helps protect the chrome, but it is a lot of work. 

 

BTW, I have used CRC 3-36 sprayed (misted) on chassis that are to be restored at a later date.  This product leaves a protective anti-rust layer that is thin, dries non-oily and is invisible.  EH Scott recommended wiping the chrome down with a light oil at regular intervals. 

The results speak volumes.  There is not a nook or cranny where you can see dirt. 

Oh, and as for cleaning tubes, I always use windex sprayed on a paper towel being careful to avoid the letters.  If the letters are nasty, I use #0000 steel wool lightly over the lettering.  I have never found that steel wool alone will get a tube squeaky clean. 

[Dave]

Well I guess I use similar techniques, different products. After compressed air, I’ll move a Windex soaked rag about everywhere, and push it in narrow passages via a toothbrush or small wood dowels, even pencil eraser. Windex has some fast drying alcohol so serves to break down oil like grime and typically suffices over tubes while my thumb serves to protect ink. As for Polish, I’m a boat guy preferring 3M gelcoat Polish that has a very forgiving lite compound additive. An outstanding product, superior for plastic, Bakelite and yes, Catalin. Any rough spots or rust I pretreat with fine Scotchbrite pads, followed up with 3M.