Scott Philharmonic jackpot!

[Alex R. Whitaker]

I managed to find a Red Dial Philharmonic (1938) in a Wellington cabinet, with a Garrard RC-60 turntable, and the tweeters.  Along with the deal was a pointer dial Philharmonic, in a Warrington.  All of this was at a great price.  I'm really stoked, as I now have a beam of light, motorized tuning, 1939 Philharmonic, in a Warrington, along with these two.  If I can manage to get an AM/FM Philly, I'll have one of each example (kind of a dream of mine).  I don't have pictures of the pointer dial set, but here is the red dial.  There is a closeup of the serial number for Kent.  Also, the power supply/amp looked to have been recapped 30-40 years ago, so I did try the set.  It appeared to have no B+ after a couple of minutes, so I shut it down.  The tuner chassis has some quite old repairs, but hasn't been overhauled, so I'm not surprised that it doesn't work.  

[Kent King]

Great find!! I didn't have that serial number either, thanks! I can tell you that set was built in the 2nd half of October 1939...I've got another date very close...Congrats!

[Alex R. Whitaker]

Thanks, Kent, per always!

[David C. Poland]

Congrats, Alex

For the motorized remote control Philly, I can share info of what I built to run both the volume and tuning motors, and the internal radio/phono relay switch. Just need  3 momentary contact switches, a length of 6 conductor cable.

and the right 21 pin Jones Plug.

IMG_0084.jpeg

[David C. Poland]

Errr.Ahhh. Make that 6 momentary switches. For the  3 functions

[Alex R. Whitaker]

Thanks, Dave, I may take you up on that.  I did get an original remote control, with the cable, in excellent condition, with the radio.  If I can't get that to work, your work-around looks to be an excellent solution. 

[David C. Poland]

Alex - if you have a keyboard for the remote control set, suggest you use it.

I had to scrap the last 4 5 feet of cable near the keyboard, for really bad rubber insulation. Tricky to reconnect cable as all the wires are black.

Notes on the prewar remote control keyboard and remote control Scotts:

- The 24 volt step-down transformer in the PS is always on for the volume control motor. I use a power strip.

- the volume control has 2 power switches - one to power the radio and the 2nd for the rest of the 24 volt circuits to run the dial motor and the radio/phono relay.

- the post war 800B keyboard as wired differently and, so, is not interchangeable with the prewar keyboard.

- the dial motor runs the dial and station preset wheel nicely. But the volume control not so much - so make sure the volume control shaft is lubricated and turns as freely as possible. Figure you will just use the keyboard button to operate the volume control because the reduction gears make the volume control knob turn hard.

- pin 8 is the only unused pin on the 21 pin Jones plug for prewar.

- some remote control sets use a small 5 pin socket on the receiver rear by the Jones socket to operate the phono and even allow record reject from the keyboard. Cautions - as Scott used the same small 5 pin socket for the 1940 and 1941 optional hi-fi speaker system to control the tweeter. Look for a separate terminal strip for phono input a as a hint the small socket is for the outboard crossover cable to control the tweeter.

[Norman S Braithwaite]

Additional notes:

The post-war remotes used vinyl insulated wires.

A post war remote can be modified for use with prewar sets.

Norman

[Alex R. Whitaker]

Norman,

Thanks for your very informative response.  My wires are all cloth covered....the remote and all its wires looks almost new.  The station presets are all from the Dallas, TX area, so my radio must have come from there.  I  need to take pictures of all my Scott serial number plates, and get them to Kent.  BTW, you and Kent, along with the late Alan Jesperson, and Jim Clark, have been my Scott radio collector heroes for many years.  

[David C. Poland]

Alex - glad your insulation is good.

For watchers:

The post war keyboard cables wires I have seen also feature multi colored wires.

My understanding follows with regard to Jones plug numbered pins:

-Post war - The wires for the station presets keys start with pin 1. So other functions are higher pin numbers.

-Pre war - the wires for the station presets keys start with pin 10. So other functions are lower pin numbers.

But there may be exceptions, so tracing a few wires is prudent, especially if you pick up a remote keyboard now.

The pre and post war keyboards look the same, made of plastic in either dark brown or ivory.

Of course, the receiver has to have the 24 volt motors and the big circular preset housing on the back.

And it is indeed possible to rewire any remote to the other version, but be nice to add a label to ID it.

[Scott Seickel]

David, you said that pin 8 is the only prewar pin that is not used.  Where does pin 9 go to?  Best I have figured so far is that only 19 wires were used. 

[David C. Poland]

Scott. -  Looked at my notes again. Both 8 and 9 un-used. sorry. 

Jones Plug has 21 pins. The flat cable is made up of two 10 wire flat cables, thus 20 wires available.

The rear housing has 12 adjustable station presets. The keyboard amber buttons will accept call letter tabs.

The keyboard buttons work by completing 24 volts circuit to ground, completing a circuit to run a motor or relay.

pin.       purpose per my notes

1     vol motor/ON

2     24 volts to keyboard lamp -  glows when radio is powered up.

3.    vol motor/OFF

4    relay - to RADIO position

5.   common - 24 volts AC source

6.   relay - to PHONO position 

7    Lamp               Lamp goes dark while any button is pushed

8    not used - wired to a cable wire but other end of wire not connected to keyboard.

9.   not connected 

10 to 21 for presets in reverse order -  21 is preset 1, 20 is preset 2, 19 is preset 3...