I have questions about my 7-knob BOL Philly with Robot Control

[Bob Snively]

I am starting this discussion because I have questions about my Philharmonic as I embark on a quest to restore it to optimum performance.

I have included pics of the dial and knobs. 

Other than what I have found on this forum, is there any documented restoration of the robot control? Wiring diagrams or schematics?

Does anyone have any pictures of their push/pull scratch suppressor switch and it's related shaft/knob? Mine has a rotary on/off switch and the knob configuration makes it rather awkward for manual tuning due to its close proximity to the tuning knob.

[David C. Poland]

I do not have the dimensions without removing and opening up the my Philly bottom plate.

On yours, measure the available space front to back. 

[Bob Snively]

Very good information. I have found a heavy duty push/pull switch that fits with the tuning motor untouched. I'll have a friend turn down a piece on his lathe for the shaft/knob and the 2 1/2" measurement is extremely handy to know. 

Scott Seickel said:

The original pull out scratch suppressor switch is 2-1/2" total shaft length to the body of the switch from the pull end, so you get an idea of how long a switch needs to be to get out of the front panel.  Don't know if you are going to find a switch that long with a low body profile.  The switch body is 1" deep, so it's not crazy big.  I would just take the knob off the shaft.  You don't need to use that control unless you are playing records.  

[Bob Snively]

David, if you can share that pre-war wiring for the keyboard, it will be greatly appreciated.

David C. Poland said:

I had a 1940 Philly BOL with remote control and still have a Phantom Deluxe with it.

The keyboard itself should present no problem, unless the wiring insulation has failed like mine has. Crumbling insulation risks electrical shorts and strange keyboard action for this 24 volt system.

The motor drive, gears and the tuning capacitor should move pretty freely. If not, fix it. Then a little light oil like sewing machine oil or air tool lubricant which is a 10 weight non-detergent - not 3 in 1 oil, not grease, not WD-40 which may get gummy with time.

Riders documentation for the postwar 800 B has detailed keyboard wiring. Prewar version is wired differently.

The now inactive EHS Historical Society published the prewar wiring which I have if someone needs it.

   The prewar remote keyboard 12 station presets start with Jones plug pin 10. 

   The postwar keyboards 12 station presets start with Jones plug pin1

I had more problem with the motorized volume control, getting it loose enough to move freely.

Scott - your time line makes sense - that the two additional controls appeared earlier 1939, months before the addition of the logging scale at the top of the dial for late 1939 for the "new 1940 model". Scott's history of set evolution during a model run helps explain why the early 7 knob BOL dial model was a short run and so seldom seen. 

[David C. Poland]

Bob - I already did.. The pre war keyboard wiring is in my message 12 hours ago. it is from an issue of the EHS Historical Society publication 

[Scott Seickel]

David, the image you posted seems to be a portion of the article.  Is there more available?  

Here is a wiring diagram that I drew when I got my remote set.  Never had a chance to complete it as my house was going up for sale and it has been a long road since then. 

Feel free to contribute info to it and I will complete it and give it to Kent to post in the files section here.  

Remote%20Schematic%20.pdf

[Kent King]

Scott - I attached a PDF of the article pages from that issue of the EHSHS Scott News. I have some old copies of that issue if you want a complete original.

Kent

[Scott Seickel]

Excellent Kent.  Thank you.  

[Bob Snively]

Scott, thank you for your diagram.

Scott Seickel said:

David, the image you posted seems to be a portion of the article.  Is there more available?  

Here is a wiring diagram that I drew when I got my remote set.  Never had a chance to complete it as my house was going up for sale and it has been a long road since then. 

Feel free to contribute info to it and I will complete it and give it to Kent to post in the files section here.  

Remote%20Schematic%20.pdf

[Bob Snively]

Thank you for this info.

Kent King said:

Scott - I attached a PDF of the article pages from that issue of the EHSHS Scott News. I have some old copies of that issue if you want a complete original.

Kent

[David C. Poland]

Scott - I did a pencil drawing when I addressed my keyboard. Your drawing is so much more professional.

I had a lot of bad wiring and all the wires had black insulation, so a kinda a nightmare - trashing 4 feet of cable and re attaching the cable to the keyboard. I think the remaining problems are insulation into the Jones plug..I got it working fairly well.

But for normal use with a CD player, and with no decent local AM stations anyway, I obtained another 21 pin Jones plug and made dumbed down keyboard to run the volume control and the Radio/Phono relay plus connection to only  the the #2 and #11 presets,  so I can run the tuning motor up and down the dial much like the Zenith Robot dial of 1938. Just took 6 momentary switches to create this limited functionality  - for my Phantom Deluxe with remote control. IMG_0084.jpeg

And thus:  IMG_0086.jpeg

[Bob Snively]

As I am taking in all the capacitors that need replaced, there is a capacitor block with 4 electrolytics rated 4mfd. 300volts each which is item #112 (Scott part #1259) in the chassis bottom photo. Do all four capacitors share a common negative polarity to chassis ground?

[Scott Seickel]

Yes.  

Bob Snively said:

As I am taking in all the capacitors that need replaced, there is a capacitor block with 4 electrolytics rated 4mfd. 300volts each which is item #112 (Scott part #1259) in the chassis bottom photo. Do all four capacitors share a common negative polarity to chassis ground?